Using Wire Mesh In The Garden
(Page 2 of 5)
June/July 2002
By Brook Elliott
Nothing says you must have straight rows, either. Wire mesh lends itself to gentle curves and sharp bends, so you can use it to construct fences in any configuration you like.
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Perhaps the ultimate in this flexible potential, if you have the room, is to construct a spiral maze. Merely uncoil the roll of mesh so there are 3 feet or so between each coil. Periodically support the wire with a pole. Plant beans, peas, grapes or other vining plants along the length of the wire, and you'll have a living maze. You can even place a chair at the center for a pleasant reading nook or some private sunbathing.
TOMATO TOWERS
Instead of straight fences, a more common use of the mesh is to construct tomato towers, used in lieu of the ubiquitous tomato cages found in every garden center and hardware store.
What's wrong with store-bought tomato cages? They are too flimsy, too short and too expensive. Even the larger ones (they come in three sizes) are far too small to adequately support an indeterminate tomato plant, providing only 2½ feet of height. What's more, the wire used for them is so flimsy, just the weight of the plant often causes them to collapse. As for cost, last year they sold for $4 each where I live in Kentucky.
On the other hand, wire-mesh towers are strong, durable, inexpensive and tall enough. Towers are typically built to either 18- or 24-inch diameter. Which means you can make 25 to 30 of them from a roll of mesh at a rough cost of only $1.80 to $2.20 each. That's literally twice as much for half the price.
To build these towers of tomato power, first determine the diameter you prefer. A 24-inch diameter requires 6 feet of mesh, while 5 feet will do for an 18-inch diameter tower.
You'll find it easier to work with the roll standing vertically. And, while any pliers with a side-cutter work, I've found one of those mini-bolt cutters does a more efficient job.
When you first start a roll, the end will be closed. That is, there will be a vertical wire. Cut that off, reserving it for other purposes, such as making ground staples for holding row cover material in place. This will leave 11 horizontal prongs.
Measure the length of mesh you need, and cut it off behind the next vertical wire. You'll have a panel of mesh with a vertical wire on one side and 11 prongs on the other. Bend each of those prongs roughly 90 degrees to form hooks at their halfway point. Roll the panel so the hooks fit under the end wire. Then bend them completely back, locking them in place around the wire.
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