Okra

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Okra will grow in any well-drained garden soil in full sun. The soil should be worked 8 to 10 inches deep to promote strong root growth, and compost or organic fertilizer should be worked in. Most okra growers sow seeds directly in the garden. Plant the seeds an inch deep and 2 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart, a few weeks after all danger of frost has passed. Once sprouted, the plants should be thinned to about 15 inches. Alternatively, plant three to five seeds in hills 15 inches apart. When the plants are 3 or 4 inches tall, thin the hills to the single strongest plant in each hill.

Contrary to conventional wisdom, okra can be started indoors. I start it in flats, then repot the young shoots into newspaper pots. These in turn are transplanted after all frost danger has passed, being careful to not disturb the roots. Growers in short-season climes might consider this technique to assure a crop.

Okra should be cultivated to keep weeds down. Hand pull any weeds very close to the stems to avoid damaging roots. The plants produce strong stems, and staking is usually not needed. Okra is fairly drought tolerant, and watering every seven to 10 days is more than adequate.

HARVESTING AND PRESERVING

Okra pods should be picked when they are 2 to 3 inches long. (Larger pods will be tough and fibrous.) Often this means harvesting every two days to assure tender pods. Some okra varieties have short, hairy bristles that can cause itchiness and a possible rash, so wear gloves when harvesting the pods. (These hairs lose their prickliness when cooked.) Pods keep well in the fridge for up to three days. After that they start to discolor and deteriorate rapidly.

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