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Okra will grow in any well-drained garden soil in full sun.
The soil should be worked 8 to 10 inches deep to promote
strong root growth, and compost or organic fertilizer
should be worked in. Most okra growers sow seeds directly
in the garden. Plant the seeds an inch deep and 2 inches
apart, in rows 3 feet apart, a few weeks after all danger
of frost has passed. Once sprouted, the plants should be
thinned to about 15 inches. Alternatively, plant three to
five seeds in hills 15 inches apart. When the plants are 3
or 4 inches tall, thin the hills to the single strongest
plant in each hill.
Contrary to conventional wisdom, okra can be started
indoors. I start it in flats, then repot the young shoots
into newspaper pots. These in turn are transplanted after
all frost danger has passed, being careful to not disturb
the roots. Growers in short-season climes might consider
this technique to assure a crop.
Okra should be cultivated to keep weeds down. Hand pull any
weeds very close to the stems to avoid damaging roots. The
plants produce strong stems, and staking is usually not
needed. Okra is fairly drought tolerant, and watering every
seven to 10 days is more than adequate.
HARVESTING AND PRESERVING
Okra pods should be picked when they are 2 to 3 inches
long. (Larger pods will be tough and fibrous.) Often this
means harvesting every two days to assure tender pods. Some
okra varieties have short, hairy bristles that can cause
itchiness and a possible rash, so wear gloves when
harvesting the pods. (These hairs lose their prickliness
when cooked.) Pods keep well in the fridge for up to three
days. After that they start to discolor and deteriorate
rapidly.