Plant Your GARLIC Now

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Garlic is hardy and not often bothered by pests. Nematodes can be a problem, especially in the West, and they sometimes persist in the soil for several years. Plants infested with nematodes will be stunted, with pale, twisted leaves. Eventually the stem will begin to rot. Prevention is the best defense: Start with clean seed stock and don't plant garlic near nematode hosts, such as onions, peas, parsley, celery or salsify.

Onion thrips are small, sucking insects that attack garlic, especially during dry, warm weather. Spray stems with water or insecticidal soap and remove crop residue after harvest. Soilborne diseases like white rot and penicillium molds can sometimes be a problem in garlic crops, usually causing stunted plants to turn yellow and die. You can avoid these problems by starting with disease-free planting stock (see sources ), adding compost to your planting bed and cleaning up crop debris after harvest.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Pull your garlic too early and you'll harvest small bulbs that don't store well; wait too long and the cloves will begin to pull away from the stalk and dry out. The trick is to begin watching for clues in midsummer. When the leaves start to turn brown. Stop watering (and hope for dry weather) to help the skins dry out. When slightly more than half the leaves have turned color, pull a sample bulb every few days. When the cloves fill out the skins evenly, your crop is ready for harvest.

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