Plant Your GARLIC Now
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Garlic is hardy and not often bothered by pests. Nematodes
can be a problem, especially in the West, and they
sometimes persist in the soil for several years. Plants
infested with nematodes will be stunted, with pale, twisted
leaves. Eventually the stem will begin to rot. Prevention
is the best defense: Start with clean seed stock and don't
plant garlic near nematode hosts, such as onions, peas,
parsley, celery or salsify.
Onion thrips are small, sucking insects that attack garlic,
especially during dry, warm weather. Spray stems with water
or insecticidal soap and remove crop residue after harvest.
Soilborne diseases like white rot and penicillium molds can
sometimes be a problem in garlic crops, usually causing
stunted plants to turn yellow and die. You can avoid these
problems by starting with disease-free planting stock (see
sources ), adding compost to your planting bed and cleaning
up crop debris after harvest.
WHEN TO HARVEST
Pull your garlic too early and you'll harvest small bulbs
that don't store well; wait too long and the cloves will
begin to pull away from the stalk and dry out. The trick is
to begin watching for clues in midsummer.
When the leaves start to turn brown. Stop watering (and
hope for dry weather) to help the skins dry out. When
slightly more than half the leaves have turned color, pull
a sample bulb every few days. When the cloves fill out the
skins evenly, your crop is ready for harvest.