STRIKING GOLD with GREEN MANURE
(Page 3 of 5)
Second, consider which of the two basic groups of covers
you'd like to grow: legumes or grasses and grains. All add
a certain amount of organic matter (though grasses and
grains tend to add more). Legumes decompose rapidly when
turned under and are unsurpassed as nitrogen-catchers,
securing more of this important element in the soil than
any other cover crop.
RELATED CONTENT
The original marshmallow? The candied roots of the marsh mallow...
A Seed's Life October/November 2000 Good beginnings can equal a great garden by Kris Wetherbee Thes...
Save money and connect with local gardeners by exchanging garden seeds through organized seed swaps...
Here’s what you need to know to take advantage of this traditional technique — planting cover crops...
A new report from the Union of Concerned Scientists evaluates the overall effect genetic engineerin...
Grasses and grains, on the other hand, often germinate and
grow quicker than legumes, making them the first-choice for
fast, effective ground covers. They are also especially
valued for the bulky organic matter they add to soil, as
well as for reducing nematodes in the garden.
But why not grow a mix so you can have the best of both
worlds? Your fast-growing grains will act as a nurse crop
to help sustain and provide support for your slower-growing
vining legumes. Plus, the legume-grass/grain combination
holds nitrogen in the soil better than either grown alone.
When to Plant
Depending on where you live, you can plant cover crops
anytime from early spring through late fall. Spring or
summer planted covers can be used as part of your rotation,
grown between rows or underneath established vegetables.
Frost-tolerant covers like bell bean, Austrian peas and
oats can be planted as soon as your soil can be worked. For
others, like cowpeas, buckwheat and soybeans, wait until
all danger of frost has passed.
Fall and winter covers are sown as early as August in cold
climates and as late as November in the deep South.
Since I sow a variety of cover crops, I'm usually planting
throughout the year. In the spring I might sow
nitro-alfalfa and spring oats, which are turned under in
midsummer, before I plant my fall crops. Buckwheat is an
excellent green manure for summer (I plant in May or June,
tilling under six to ten weeks later). Fava beans, Austrian
peas, crimson clover and vetch are my favorites for
planting in the fall (September or early October here in
our mild zone 8 Oregon climate) and then tilling under in
spring.
Together, these crops provide erosion protection against
our considerable winter rains, organic matter to loosen our
heavy clay soil, plus nutrients - specifically nitrogen,
but also phosphorus (supplied by buckwheat) - in which our
soil tends to be lacking.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 | 3 |
4 |
5 |
Next >>