AMERICAN INTENSIVE SOLAR GARDENING

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When you have finished securing the long edges of the glazing to within 18 inches of the corners, alternately fasten a screw into the long edge (C) and then the short edge (B) until the corners are firmly secured. This will help prevent creasing of the glazing. Fasten all corners in this way.

Next, fasten the metal handles (G) on the outside of the end plates. The rigid foam board insulation (D) should be installed now as well. It should fit snugly underneath the end glazing supports and up against the end plates. A few dabs of silicone caulk will help to glue it in place.

Turn the Pod upright. The next additions are the snow support rib (K) and the angelhair insulation (H). We recommend adding this snow support rib regardless of whether the Pod will be used in a northern climate. The rib will help to extend the life of the Pod should the wind blow it upside down (or if someone faints on top of it). Insert the snow support rib into the predrilled holes. If the rib is sitting or pressing against the top of the inner glazing, remove it and insert flat washers into the holes as shims to raise the rib to a level where it will be centered between the inner and outer glazing. Put a small amount of caulking in the hole, replace the rib, then caulk around the base of the rib where it enters the side rails.

The angelhair insulation is fitted to and placed on top of the inner glazing. Hold it in place by tacking the edge with a staple gun into the wood, close to the inner glazing. Where the edges meet, feather them together for a smoother appearance. Cover the snow support rib over and under with the angelhair insulation.

Now the Pod is ready for the top glazing (I). The upper glazing will extend beyond the outside of the end plates by 1/8-inch on either end. Lay the outer glazing on the frame. Square it so that the bottom ends overlap the side rails (C) by the same amount on either side.

When the outer glazing is located perfectly on the frame, drill two centering holes at the top of the end plates (A). Remove the outer glazing. Apply a bead of caulking to the middle of the upper edges of the end plates. Extend the bead of caulk along the entire upper edge of the end plates down to the side rails. Any holes, blemishes, or low spots in the wood along the bead should have extra caulking forced into them as filler.

Wipe any dust off the underside of the glazing. Two people are needed to reposition it and align the center holes with ¾-inch pan-head aluminum screws. Starting from these screws, work toward the corner of the glazing, drilling and inserting screws about four inches apart. Fasten the glazing up to about 16 inches from the corner.

Adjust the long sides of the glazing so that there are no creases in it. This is done by pushing up on the middle of the long edge. If there is a crease that just won't disappear, remove and readjust some of the screws closest to the corner until the glazing forms a smooth curve along its whole length. Once the glazing forms a smooth arch, draw a line along the bottom edge of the glazing on the side rails (C). Lift the edge of the glazing slightly and apply a bead of caulk ½ to ¾ inch above the entire length of the line. Tilting the frame while applying this caulking will make this step easier.

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