AMERICAN INTENSIVE SOLAR GARDENING
(Page 12 of 14)
February/March 1995
By Leandre Poisson and Gretchen Vogel Poisson
Square up all the corners with a carpenter's square. Drill small pilot holes through the predrilled holes in the end plates and into the side rails—eight holes in all, two at each corner. Fasten with the three-inch flat-head screws. Check again to make sure the corners of the rectangle are square.
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Turn the Pod chassis over. To prevent it from rocking, brace it underneath with wooden chocks. Adjust the tops of the end plates so that they are 96 inches apart, measured from the outside of one to the outside of the other. Check this measurement again before fastening the glazing. The inside dimension, where the inner glazing is seated, should measure 94½ inches.
Rest the inner glazing (J) on the glazing supports (B).
Once the glazing is in place, drill a centering hole through it near the middle of the glazing supports and slightly into the wood. The diameter of the drill bit should be the same size as a #8 screw. The location of these centering holes will be covered with caulking, so mark their positions on the end plates (A). Remove the inner glazing.
Apply a bead of caulking approximately 3/16-inch round on all the end support pieces (B), but NOT along the side rails (C), because this would smear the glazing as it is being put into place.
Two people are needed for the next step. Replace the inner glazing, lining up the two centering holes. Touch the end plates with the glazing at the two holes and then rest the glazing outward. The glazing should fit perfectly in place, and any smudging of the caulking while placing the glazing should be minimized. Do not press the glazing into the caulking. Screw the 3/4-inch #8 screws into the predrilled centering holes. Secure firmly, but don't tighten all the way. Over-tightening will spread the caulking too thin.
Continue to drill and screw the rest of the inner glazing to the glazing supports. Start at the middle and work outward to the corners, placing the screws every 3 inches, until about 12 inches from the side rails (C).
Drill only one hole at a time and attach the screw before drilling the next hole. Gaps in the glazing are caused when all the holes are drilled at once.
To ensure that the screws go in straight, drill through the glazing and the caulking and just barely into the wood. Hold the screws straight while fastening them.
Next, apply a bead of caulking along the entire inside edge of the 2x4 side rails (C). It should be 1½ inches up from the line where the edge of the glazing will rest. All the long edges of the inner glazing should be parallel to the side rails. Otherwise, creasing of the glazing may result. If necessary, press up on one edge of the glazing to straighten it. When the glazing is correctly placed, drill a hole through the glazing and the caulking and slightly into the side rail near the middle of the rail. Avoid drilling where the snow support hole is. Fasten a ¾ inch aluminum pan-head screw at this central point. Working from the center outward, drill and place screws every six inches or so until you are within about 18 inches of the corner. Make sure that all the screws are bedded in caulking. Repeat this procedure on the other side rail.
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