AMERICAN INTENSIVE SOLAR GARDENING

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Draw the pattern outlines for the Cones on the fiberglass sheet, as shown, then cut them out either with a pair of sheet metal shears or with a saber saw fitted with a fine (18- to 24-tooth) metal blade. The saber saw is not as hard on the hands and will result in a smoother cut.

Smooth the edges of the Cones with medium-grade sandpaper or a medium file.
Then carefully predrill the holes for fastening the Cones so that, when the edges are overlapped, the holes will align. Cut, drill, and finish-sand all pieces before assembling.

To assemble each Cone, start with the bottom holes at the base. Slowly squeeze the sides together, aligning and fastening each hole on the way up. Fasten the last hole with caution so as not to crack or craze the edges of the top opening. To fasten the Cone, we recommend either 3/8 "-long nylon machine screws with hexagonal nuts or aluminum pop rivets with washers. Machine screws are removable, letting you take the Cones apart and store them flat.

Aluminum pop rivets expand at roughly the same rate as fiberglass. Even though they don’t allow you to disassemble the Cones, we have found that we never take ours apart because they store perfectly well stacked on top of each other.

When using a Solar Cone, push the bottom edge into the soil in order to seal it. Any air that leaks into the bottom will create a chimney effect inside the Cone, venting out moisture and heat, letting in cold air, and negating the solar-heating advantages of the appliance.

To make the Cone function as an insect barrier, cover the top opening with fine mesh screening held in place with fine mesh screening held in place in place with boddypins. On cold nights, stuff mulch hay or other soft material into the opening to prevent heat loss and protect plants from light frost.

To combat weathering, coat your Cones with liquid polymer on both sides every two or three years. Store the Cones under cover whenever they are not in use in the garden to prolong their life.

Now cut the fiberglass. The inner or lower glazing (J) should be 94½ inches long and the outer or upper glazing (I) should be 96¼ inches long.

The angelhair insulation can be cut later, before you attach the upper glazing to the Pod.

Assembly of the Pod

The first step in assembling the Pod is to attach the end plates (A) to the two-by-four-inch side rails (C). The end plates and the side rails form the chassis of the Solar Pod. Place the 2 x 4s parallel to each other on the floor, four feet apart. The beveled edge of each should be facing out, and the snow support hole should be facing up. Place the end plates so that the bottom edge of the glazing supports (B) cradles the end of the side rails (C). The sides and the bottom of all these pieces should be flush (see figure 8-8).

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