The Humble Spud

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Potatoes are always available, but they're not always fresh. The flavor dwindles with storage as the potatoes' natural sugars turn to starch. Choose firm, un sprouted potatoes from a bulk display, or in a large net bag, as potatoes in plastic bags tend to spoil sooner. Sprouts and green spots should be avoided since they may contain solanine, a naturally occurring toxin.

Store at 45-50°F in a dark, dry place in a paper bag or a towel-covered bushel basket. Never store apples or onions and potatoes together since the gases given off by the onions will hasten spoilage. Don't store potatoes in the refrigerator (lower than 45°F) because the lower temperature alters the starches and flavor. If you buy dirt-covered potatoes from a farm stand, don't wash them before storing because the dirt prolongs the potatoes' freshness.

Cooking

Leave the skin on whenever possible, but cut away any and all sprouts or green patches. Once the potatoes are cut or grated and exposed to air, they darken immediately so store them in a bowl of cold water until you need them.

Baking: Pierce a russet , potato in a few places with a fork. Rub on some olive oil and place on the shelf in a preheated 400°F oven for 45—60 minutes. Test for doneness by squeezing—it should give slightly.

Boiling or steaming: Using a vegetable steamer is preferred since less vitamins are lost. Boil water first, drop in potatoes, cover, and simmer for 10—30 minutes, depending on the potatoes. Small new potatoes will cook in 10—15 minutes.

Microwaving: Pierce the potatoes in several places with a fork so they won't explode. Arrange in a circle with the thick ends of the potatoes facing the center. Rotate halfway through cooking. Depending on size and the number of potatoes, it will take about 5—10 minutes. (Don't cook more than four at a time.) Remove and let stand for 5 minutes before serving. This isn't my favorite method, since the ends of the potatoes will sometimes shrivel and the skin isn't crisp. Baked potatoes can be partially cooked in the microwave and then baked in the oven to save time. (See Spinach-Stuffed Potatoes.)

Freezing: Potatoes only freeze well in stews, soups, or mashed potatoes. They can be frozen in plastic containers.

Potato and Leek Soup

1 tablespoon butter or oil
1/2 cup yellow onions — peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large clove garlic — peeled and coarselychopped
1 medium leek or 2 small leeks, white part only — coarsely chopped
(save green part)
1 15-ounce can unsalted chicken broth
2 cups water
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground pepper
1 pound russet potatoes (about 5 medium potatoes) — peeled and cut into 1-inch slices
2 cups low fat milk
4 ounces "light" cream cheese
1/4 cup parsley — chopped, or fresh chives — minced (optional)

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