Espalier Trees

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Deciding what surface to grow your espalier tree against may be as simple as using what you've got. Chain-link fences work great, as do wood fences, the walls of your home, and trellises. You can also create your own supportive structure with wire stretched between pipes or wood posts treated with a preservative. Fruit trees trained on post and wire fences will do best if they run from north to south, allowing the western sun to penetrate.

If a trellis is not used, the tree will need to be trained onto a supportive structure of wires. If your espalier is freestanding, use galvanized 12- to 14-gauge wire stretched between 4' x 4' posts. The horizontal bars of the trellis or the horizontal wires will be spaced anywhere from 15" to 18" apart. If you'd like to emphasize a more skeletal look for your tree, set the wires closer to 18" apart. Wires will also be used against a fence or wall, threaded through eye screws.

When planting your tree, allow at least 8" of space between it and a wall or fence to ensure adequate air flow. This also gives the trunk room to grow. Keep in mind that a tree that fills a 4' x 4' trellis will ultimately fill an 8' x 8' space. Space your apple trees 6' to 8' apart. Of course, if your apple variety is not a self-pollinator, you will most likely need to plant more than one of a different variety unless there are other varieties in your immediate neighborhood.

TRAINING: Right from the start, keep the tree tied loosely to the trellis or wires, using plastic ties or plain cord. This enables you to train those branches to grow in the form you want. Now and then, check that the ties are not "choking" the branches. As the tree's lateral branches begin to grow, you'll simply give them some guidance.

After the first growing season, when you've gotten about 10" to 12" of growth on a branch, begin pruning certain branches while allowing others to grow, depending on your design. For most styles, with the exception of the fan and Belgian fence, cut back the young branches leaving only the best three that have grown 4" to 6" from the whip. Then bend and train these shoots along the first wire 4" to 6". [Note: Specific training techniques for the varying styles are outlined in Hedges, Screens, and Espaliers (HP Books, 1983)].

As the tree begins to grow, your primary job is to prune unwanted branches as often as necessary to help develop the basic structure. You'll get used to repeating pruning steps each season and cutting off unwanted lateral branches that will try to grow in a way that does not mesh with your intended design. Every week or so, grab your pruning sheers and head for your espaliered tree.

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