The Dirt On Dirt
(Page 3 of 4)
Natural Fertilizers
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When you add lots of compost to keep up the humus level of
your garden, you don't have to worry much about NPK. Good
compost provides most of the nutrients plants need. But if
you're in the process of building up soil fertility, like I
am, your garden plants need an occasional NPK boost.
Furthermore, applying a little fertilizer at strategic
times helps any plant reach its fullest potential.
Strategic times to fertilize are: when a plant develops
true leaves, when it begins to bloom, and again when it
starts setting fruit.
If you have access to manure, you can provide a quick
nitrogen pickme-up for any plant that's about to bloom by
giving it a shot of manure tea. Cover manure in water and
let it steep for about a month, strain out the solids (toss
them into your compost heap), and dilute the liquid to the
color of weak tea.
Another good source of nitrogen is dried blood meal, a
slaughter-house byproduct. A good source of phosphorus is
bone meal, a slaughter-house product made of steamed,
ground-up bones. Heating it with wood gives you a ready
source of potassium in the ashes from your stove-about 50
pounds of ashes for every cord you burn. In addition to
supplying potassium, wood ashes also sweeten acidic soil.
Soil acidity (pH) is measured on a scale of 0 to 14; 7 is
neutral. Soil that's be low 7 is acidic; soil that's above
7 is alkaline. Extremes in pH tie up nutrients, and most
vegetables do best in neutral soil.
The ashes of dense hardwoods like oak and hickory are best
for sweetening soil. Apply no more than 20 pounds per 1,000
square feet per year. If your soil is on the alkaline side,
you can lower the pH by working in sawdust, leaf mold, or
peat moss. Because I used lots of sawdust to improve my
soil's humus level, I also added ashes to balance its pH.
Now that I've got plenty of compost, my soil's acidity
takes care of itself, since compost tends to neutralize pH.
Despite all the sawdust, ashes, and compost I've added, my
garden's soil still isn't perfect-but it is well on its
way.
SOIL TESTS
To find out what's in the soil in your garden, fill a quart
jar one-third full with soil and two-thirds full with
water. Shake the jar and set it aside until the soil
settles into layers: The bottom layer will be sand; above
the sand will be a layer of silt; then comes a layer of
day; and on top of the water will float undecomposed
organic matter. A good mix contains about 20 percent clay,
40 percent silt, and 20 percent sand plus organic matter.
Another way to find out what kind of soil you have is to
squeeze a moist sample in your hand. If the soil forms a
tight, sticky ball, it contains too much clay. If it feels
grainy and crumbles no matter how hard you squeeze, it has
too much sand. If it forms a loose mound when you squeeze
gently, but crumbles when you squeeze harder, you've got
good garden loam.