Seed Starting Secrets

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Because of this, you must never let already-watered seeds and young seedlings dry out; it will mean almost certain death. Too often, small seeds are sown so shallowly that their survival depends on the moisture held in that thin layer of surface soil . . . which is the first soil to dry out. To protect seeds, I use a Haw-stype watering can to moisten the tamped-down soil mixture to the correct consistency before I sow seed. Then I sift a thin layer of the same mix, with perhaps a bit more sand, over the top of the seeds.

MOTHER's gardening articles frequently mention Haws-type watering cans, and many of you may be wondering what sets these apart from the more common garden-store rainmakers. Well, the British Haws can and the French Schneider both have detachable heads (called roses) that are angled skyward so the water sprays upward, is aerated, and then falls with only the force of gravity. They're also balanced for comfortable transporting and pouring when being held at any point along the handle. Many excellent companies carry them, including Gardener's Supply Co., 133 Elm St., Winooski, VT 05404 (802/655-9006), and Green River Tools, 5 Cotton Mill Hill, P.O. Box 1919, Brattleboro, VT 05301(802/254-2388). Green River Tools also offers a Fine Spray Hose Attachment for $4.50 that saturates, yet ever so gently. We use it in the greenhouse with excellent results.

Light can have a subtle influence on whether or not some seeds will sprout. Since seeds are in darkness when underground, it would seem that absence of light is a natural condition for sprouting. Some seeds, though — including lettuce and celery — show improved germination when exposed to light before planting.

If you must start seedlings indoors and don't have a sunny window space, fluorescent lights provide an effective — and inexpensive — alternative to commercial "grow lights."

Oxygen: Vegetables will, of course, die from lack of water, but let too much water enter the picture and oxygen can be excluded to the point where rot is invited. (This often happens in spring when the ground is cold and saturated and seeds are planted too early.)

Soil temperature is one of the strongest factors influencing every stage of a vegetable's life from "planted seed" to "gone to seed." After all, our common garden crops originated in various climates around the globe, and they inherently want to sprout when temperatures and light hours are in their favor.

Timing, therefore, is extremely important. Use the frost dates for your area to determine planting dates. Seedlings that are planted too early in a pre-spring fervor will be spindly, root-bound, and beginning to wane when the ideal transplant date arrives. Cool-weather crops, if planted too late, will mature on into the radiant summer and will probably suffer premature bolting. On the other hand, warm-weather and long-season varieties, when planted too late, will not have enough heat or hours of sunlight to mature.

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