Climbing Okra
(Page 3 of 3)
When the seedlings have been set out in the garden, keep
the soil moist at all times. A 6" layer of straw mulch
regulates moisture beautifully, as well as helping to keep
weeds at bay and preventing low-hanging fruit from touching
the soil and rotting. Feed each vine monthly with one cup
of a 5-10-5 garden fertilizer (diluted according to the
directions on the container). The vine also responds
marvelously to fish-emulsion foliar sprays.
RELATED CONTENT
For Luffa or Money March/April 1981 Edible flowers, "squash", bath sponges, and cash: Here's how to...
Dr. Geoffrey Stanford of the Greenhills Experimental Station developed a natural system to keep a h...
MOM'S MARKETPLACE September/October 1983 A listing of new and noteworthy products that might intere...
Grow gourds for use in beautiful and fun crafting projects....
Last year I grew climbing okra on the wire surrounding my
large, "finished" compost pile. The plants rooted in the
cool, rich soil with vigor and grew steadily until
fall—even though the summer of 1984 was the hottest
in 138 years here on the Highland Rim of Tennessee.
FIGHTING DISEASE AND PESTILENCE
Unfortunately, the same insects and diseases that plague
the rest of the cucumber family may also afflict climbing
okra. I've had no disease on my vines, but I do fight a
running battle with spotted cucumber beetles. Late in last
year's hot, dry summer, spider mites became a problem as
well. But I've been able to control both pests with a spray
of garlic and red pepper diluted in water. (I've not found
too many insects that can stand up to that combination!)
In an edible landscape designed to produce as much bounty
as beauty, climbing okra is hard to top as a plant that's
pretty enough to eat, while tasting every bit as good as it
l ooks.
EDITOR'S NOTE: For an in-depth discussion of
edible-landscape design, see page 40.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 | 3 |