TEPARY: THE BEAN THAT LAUGHS AT DROUGHT

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BEAN CUISINE

Of course, no plant will find much favor among gardeners uriless its productivity is matched-or exceeded-by its popularity at the dinner table. And the tepary performs well on both counts. Its flavor is sweet and delicate, and the legume lends itself well to almost any recipe in which more common beans are specified.

Before cooking, let your teparies soak in cold water for at least 12 hours. After that time, the beans will have swollen to about twice their dried size, and will be ready to be incorporated into your favorite dishes. (They may, however, require more cooking time than do some other bean varieties.) The following recipes have always received an enthusiastic reception around my house. I hope they'll provide you with a worthwhile "beginner's course" in tepary cuisine.

REFRIED BEANS

Boil some soaked beans-the amount will depend upon the number of servings desired until they're quite soft, then mash them into a paste. Flavor the dish, to taste, with your favorite seasonings . . . minced garlic, diced chiles, sauted onions, cilantro (fresh green coriander, also known as Chinese parsley), cumin, oregano, and salt are commonly used. Finally, fry the teparies in vegetable oil or lard until they're very hot and have lost most of their moisture . .. then serve them, as a complete meal, with tortillas, cheese, and hot sauce. A serving of refried beans can also be used as a side dish to accompany other main course Mexican recipes.

TEPARY SOUP

1 large onion 2 cloves of garlic 1/2 pound of salt pork crushed red pepper (to taste) 3 quarts of water 6 cups of dried beans, soaked overnight and drained 1 cup of chopped celery 1 cup of grated carrots salt and pepper

First, chop the onion and mince or press the garlic cloves .... then combine them with the salt pork, a judicious amount of red pepper, and the 3 quarts of water. Bring the mix to a boil and let it simmer for an hour (or until the meat is tender). Now, remove the pork, dice it, and return it to the stock, along with the soaked teparies. After another 2 to 3 hours of gentle boiling, the beans should be tender. At that point you can toss in your celery and carrots, and when the soup has cooked slowly for 30 minutes more-add salt and pepper to taste . . . and serve the hearty meal. The recipe should feed a dozen people!

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