Plant Black Walnuts
(Page 3 of 7)
March/April 1981
By Mark Mikolas
Walnuts are also particular about their neighbors. The trees' roots produce a toxic substance known as juglone, which adversely affects a number of plants . . . including pines, potatoes, tomatoes, blackberries, alfalfa, and apples. So if your chosen planting site is in an evergreen clearing, along a fence row, or next to a garden . . . you'll have to make a difficult either/or decision.
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WHAT TO PLANT
Black walnut trees can be raised from nuts or from year-old seedlings. Most folks should be able to find free nuts and — by doing so — will have the advantage of knowing the quality of the tree they came from and where it grew. But germination of walnut seeds is uncertain, and squirrels love 'em enough to travel miles, and dig deep, in single-minded pursuit of the tasty morsels.
If you buy seedlings, on the other hand, you can select the best stock and be certain of planting a live tree at each site. (Of course, this method will cost money, but there'll be some satisfaction in having outwitted your local squirrels!) .
However, the question of whether to start your trees from seeds or seedlings is less important than are the location and genetics of the parent stock. Your trees' "ancestors" should be standing no more than 100 miles south of your planting location, or the new growth may have a hard time resisting frosts.
If you go out to collect nuts, find a healthy tree with a straight trunk and vigorous crown. Local foresters or hardwood buyers may be able to lead you to ideal specimens that are too young for cutting, or to prime trees whose owner has been reluctant to sell. Gather nuts as soon as they start to fall. Open a few (wear rubber gloves when husking them to avoid dyeing your fingers brown!) to make sure the nutmeats are in good condition ... not dried or shriveled. Gather three nuts for each tree you want to plant.
If you decide to set out seedlings, check the nurseries in your area and contact your nearest forestry office (some state forestry departments offer seedlings at nominal prices). Once you've located a source, make sure that the young trees come from seedlots where weather conditions and spring frost dates approximate those of your growing site.
Order the little saplings in the fall (you probably won't be the only person in your area who's thinking of planting walnut, so get a head start). And if you have a choice, go for the biggest and healthiest seedlings available. Measure them at points one inch above the root collars . . . they should be a quarter-inch or more in diameter. A baby black that's even 1/16 inch less than that minimum size can take years more to grow to marketable dimensions.
SITE PREPARATION
These wonderful nut-bearers don't appreciate competition! Your new tree — whether it was planted as a seedling or has sprung from a nut — is going to have a hard time fighting for sunshine and nourishment if it's surrounded by fast-growing weeds. You'll need to mulch or cultivate to keep unwanted plants under control.
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