Plant Black Walnuts

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In response to the continually shrinking supplies of Juglans, a few concerted efforts were made in the 1930's and 40's to plant stands of the regal trees. But cutting continued to outpace planting: In the 60's walnut was still scarce and prices were still rising. As a result, there was a renewed effort on the part of the U.S. Forest Service to develop ways to grow the valuable trees rapidly ... and — as such experiments began to pay off — private landowners were urged to start "walnut plantations".

Now you may be surprised to know that it costs very little to establish a stand of black walnuts today. In fact, it can often be done for nothing! Of course, neither you nor I may be around to cash in on our efforts when the trees planted today become marketable after 40 or 60 years, but consider: If your land is still in the family when the walnuts attain a salable size, the trees will constitute a grubstake for your children and grandchildren ... and such an investment sure beats the value (and cost!) of life insurance policies.

In the meantime, the stand of stately hardwoods will provide beauty, shade, and walnuts for decades to come. (And who can put a cash value on a future of sunny days spent sitting on the porch, eating homemade black walnut ice cream and spice cake?)

WHERE TO PLANT

If you're interested in starting a walnut grove, find out first whether the stately trees are native to your area. Most of them grow east of the Mississippi, with prime commercial stands located in Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, and Iowa. The hardwoods do well in California, too. If you haven't been able to spot a specimen, your local forester can tell you whether there are any in your region of the country.

Next, be aware that Juglans nigra is one of the most site-sensitive of hardwoods, so — if you want the trees to grow up straight and strong — you've got to be particular about where you start your future forest. In smooth, rolling countryside the specific location isn't as important as are soil conditions. However, if your region is made up of strongly rolling terrain, or is actually mountainous, the areas to select (for further soil testing) are lower north-facing slopes, stream terraces, and flood plains. Avoid steep hillsides, south faces, and ridge tops.

The earth at your chosen planting site should be high-grade topsoil with good loam, and a near-neutral pH of 6.0 to 6.5. The subsoil should be the same, but a little clay won't matter. Good drainage is important, though, and the only way to be sure your location can provide it is to dig right down to a depth of at least 48 inches. If you hit gravel less than 40 inches down, you're on a spot where walnut trees will grow twice as slowly as will those whose roots can go 40 inches or more into unobstructed soil. Worse yet, if you hit rock or hard clay, or if the soil is mottled (spots or blotches of different colors indicate that it doesn't drain well), look elsewhere.

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