You Can Grow Your Own Mushrooms

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I never take this pasteurization step. Just before bringing in the compost, I spray the mushroom house with fungicide and insecticide and the organisms within the compost are already under control. Some mushroom houses leak in so many spots that it is impossible to get the heat up, and in these cases the most effective technique is to spray the house liberally before bringing the compost inside.

And now a word of encouragement for the organic gardener. If you plan to crop in an area that can be steamed, you'll have no difficulty, but usually steaming isn't practical on most homesteads. What are your other options? You will have a better chance of maintaining healthy plants if your mushroom house is in the cellar rather than in an outbuilding. Also, if you can divide your crop, placing a few trays under the stairs, a few more in the wash area, and so forth, then the probability of disease spreading through the trays is greatly reduced. If you must use an outbuilding, it is essential to have all windows and openings covered with a very fine screen to reduce the number of pests gaining entrance.

Because good sanitation plays a big role in pest control, your efforts must be concentrated in this area. By faithfully removing decaying organic matter, stagnant water, and rubbish you will eliminate breeding places for potential problem-makers.

ADDING THE SPAWN

After the trays are filled, you may still detect an ammonia odor. Never introduce spawn while there is even a faint smell of ammonia in the trays because the mycelia would be destroyed. Only after the rather pungent odor of ammonia has completely disappeared should you add spawn to the compost.

Whether using dry brick or dry flake spawn, apply about one quart to every 12 to 15 square feet of compost. When using brick spawn, insert a piece about 1-1/2 inches square every 6 inches to a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Cover the spawn with compost and firm down. This procedure has been used for many years in the United States and in Europe and it is very effective.

In the last few years another method of introducing spawn into the compost has proved to be more acceptable. This technique utilizes flake spawn. The compost is allowed to mature in the stack until all ammonia odor has disappeared. This usually requires one extra turning. At this point, dry flake spawn is sprinkled over the compost and thoroughly mixed into it. The compost-spawn mixture is then placed into trays. Instead of pressing the compost firm, it is lef t loose for 24 hours.

Since it will be pressed down later, fill the boxes slightly heaping so that when it is compressed the compost will reach to within 1-1/2 to 2 inches of the tops of the trays.

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