Save Your Own Garden-Grown Vegetable Seed
Collecting, labeling and storing seeds.
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Even children can have fun collecting garden seed. Uper left: The king family's lakefront garden.
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by RICHARD P.KING
Cut your gardening costs! Become more food
self-sufficient! Create new varieties of vegetables that
grow best right in your own (and nobody else's) back yard!
And have a lot of fun in the process.
One gardening encyclopedia tells its readers not to save
seeds since they're so plentiful and inexpensive that it's
not worth the bother. Oh yeah? Take a careful look at your
colorful new seed catalogs . . . and then tell me that
seeds aren't expensive. Until recently, my yearly order
cost between $20 and $25 . . . and I suspect my case is not
unusual.
It's not necessary, though, to spend $20 or $10-or even
$5.00-each year on seeds. I've found that by saving seeds
from my own garden and then planting them the following
year, I've been able to cut my annual seed bill in half
. . . despite the fact that the few seeds I do buy
have risen sharply in price, and despite the fact that I
like to experiment with exotic (and generally expensive)
plant varieties. If you have a comparatively large
garden-or if you can discipline yourself to resist those
glowing seed catalog pictures and descriptions (something I
haven't entirely been able to do)-you could easily save
even more on your seed bill.
This year, then, why not plan to collect, store, and use
some of the seed your own garden gives you for free? It
isn't hard to do . . . and the rewards (if you ask me) more
than justify the small amount of effort involved.
FIRST, A FEW BASICS
Before we get into the actual "here's !sow" of preserving
seeds, I'd like to offer a few observations that could save
you a good deal of frustration and-possibly -
disappointment.
First of all, hybrid varieties (you'll see the
word "hybrid" in the seed catalog description or in the
vegetable's name) do not always breed true to type. Thus,
the seed from last season's mammoth tomatoes may only
produce scraggly plants bearing tiny red buttons next
season. To avoid this problem, always start with standard
(i.e., non-hybrid) vegetable varieties, or else stick with
hybrids that you know will breed true.
Second, if you plant two or more standard varieties of corn
(or squash or tomatoes, or any of the flowering vegetables)
you're likely to have crosspollination by wind and/or
insects, leading to seed of uncertain quality. (Of course,
the resulting hybrid you end up with may turn out to be of
higher quality than the two varieties with which you
started . . . but that's highly unlikely.) You can-and
shouldminimize crossfertilization by planting only one
variety of corn (or squash, tomato, etc.) at a time and
locating your plot as far as possible from your neighbor's
patch.
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