Grow Berries In Your Back Yard!
(Page 4 of 7)
Because wild blackberries are so abundant, many gardeners
pass up the opportunity to raise the domesticated kinds . .
. which is a pity, since "tamed" blackberry plants offer so
many advantages over their wild counterparts. Cultivated
varieties not only produce heavier crops of fruit, but bear
larger, juicier berries . . . berries that—in my
judgment—retain more flavor after freezing than
almost any other kind of fruit. With the advent of
thornless blackberry plants and dwarf varieties (such as
Darrow) that require much less care than full-size
varieties, there's no longer any excuse for not raising
blackberries in your back yard!
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Blackberries will thrive in many types of soil, but do best
in moderately light loam to which humus has been added. (A
slightly acid soil—about pH 6.0—is desirable.)
If the plants are to be trained to a trellis, set them six
feet apart . . . otherwise, give them three- to four-foot
spacing.
When the canes reach a height of three or four feet, their
tops should be clipped to encourage the appearance of
"laterals", or side branches. Then—each fall, after
harvest—the canes that bore fruit that year should be
cut off at ground level and new canes (no more than ten per
plant) allowed to develop. When the new canes reach three
feet in height, they—in turn—can be clipped to
encourage the production of laterals. (And, after
these shoots have borne fruit, they should be cut
off at ground level, and so on.)
LOGANBERRIES AND BOYSENBERRIES
Both of these bramble fruits are blackberry hybrids, which
accounts not only for their blackberry-like flavor but for
the fact that their cultural requirements are the same as
the blackberry's. (As with all cane fruits, it's a good
idea to apply plenty of compost to loganberry and
boysenberry plantings each year between spring and fall.
For maximum productivity, you also may wish to rake a
general-purpose commercial fertilizer into the surface of
the earth around the canes in early spring. And as always,
keep the berry patch's soil weed-free.)
A FEW WORDS ABOUT BLUEBERRIES
Most berries do better when they're "companion planted"
with others of their own kind. This is especially
true—however—of blueberries, which are largely
self-sterile. In other words, to ensure high productivity
it's essential that you plant more than one variety of
blueberry. (Currently, the three most popular varieties are
Earliblue, Bluecrop , and Coville , which
are—respectively—early-, mid-season-, and
late-cropping.)
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