Mother's Mini-Manual HYDROPONICS
(Page 2 of 7)
Hydroponics also can be successfully utilized on many tracts of land unsuitable for normal cultivation regardlessof the native soil type. In addition?and somewhat surprisingly?the system of propagation uses less water than conventional gardens (because the runoff fluid can be recycled for several days) . . . which makes it ideal for use in deserts and other water-poor regions.
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Furthermore, it's obvious that the threat of soil-borne insects and diseases is reduced in a hydroponic garden, that weeds are easier to control, that the growing medium may be used time and time again without bothersome preparation . . . and that, in effect, a well kept soilless garden requires less work than its traditional counterpart.
Perhaps best of all, these many benefits apply to all hydroponics operations . . . from the ultrasimple flowerpot-fed-through-a-wick setup to the fully automated commercial greenhouse. Anyone, in short, can put them to work in his or her garden . . . whether it's large or small, simple or lavish, "just for fun" or seriously cultivated for food and/or profit. The next few pages tell you how.
Most of the material in this special feature has been excerpted from Hydro-Story (formerly Hydroponic Gardening at Home) by Charles E. Sherman and Hap Brenizer (with the permission of Nolo Press, Box 544, Occidental, Calif. 95465). Some of the following selections have been summarized by MOTHER's staff from the additional sources listed at the end of the article.
THE CONTAINER
The hydroponic container can be anything which will hold up a bed of growing medium, usually about 8?9 inches deep. Galvanized iron or tin should not be used because the excessive zinc can poison the plants. Wood, plastic, concrete, roofing felt, brick, mortar, plaster, mud, clay, fiberglass, plastic resin, etc.?all are quite suitable. Redwood will not rot if set in the ground, but other wood, especially plywood, must have protection both inside and out from rot. Asphalt emulsion is a good, non?toxic preservative, and should be painted on all surfaces in contact with the ground. Also suitable are jars, boxes, flowerpots, old packing crates, or discarded buckets and barrels. In short, anything at all will do which is non-toxic to plants. The cheapest materials are those which can be found or scrounged.
Some people build troughs right on top of the ground. There should be a liner (plastic, tar paper, mud plaster, etc., work well to discourage soil-borne insects and diseases) between the bed and the soil, and the ground should be graded in an even, gentle slope for good drainage. It is essential that there be no low spots which will collect stagnant puddles. However you make them, plant beds should not be so wide that you cannot easily reach all parts while standing outside.
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