It's Pruning Time for Apple Trees

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"You don't have to be a graduate tree surgeon to improve the appearance, yield, and general health of an apple tree," says Richard Korst of Samuels, Idaho. "In fact, anyone with some shears and a pruning saw—and some common sense—can handle the job."

Whether you want to restore vigor to that aging apple tree in the backyard, ensure the success of a recently planted sapling, or increase the yield of a whole orchard . . . you'd do well—especially now, while the sap's down and the leafless branches are easy to see—to explore the advantages you can derive from a little judicious tree pruning.

Few things are as beneficial to a fruit tree as regular pruning. A properly trimmed tree is not only more pleasing to the eye than its untrained counterpart, but can yield moreand better fruit AND live a healthier life . . . all of which adds up to money in your pocket.

And speaking of money, tree pruning is a marketable skill that can pay your bills if you live anywhere near commercial orchards. (As a traveling tree pruner, I find it profitable every year to trek 300 miles from the woods of northern Idaho to the lush orchards of central Washington!)

THE TOOLS YOU'LL NEED

The main tools you'll need to do a good pruning job are: a small pruning saw, a saw mounted on a pole (for reaching those high, thick branches), hand loppers (lopping shears), and pole loppers (for topping and high work). You'll find these items at most large nursery and garden supply outlets.

In case you've ever wondered, a pruning saw differs from a carpenter's saw in two ways: [1] the pruning saw has coarser, thicker teeth that are less likely to bind up than an ordinary saw's, and [2] it's made to cut—usually—on the pull stroke. Each of these features can be a definite advantage when you're working atop a ladder or a branch and you can't afford to lose your balance.

WHEN TO PRUNE

You can prune at any time of year, although a great deal of cutting in early spring may cause excessive loss of sap. The owners of commercial apple orchards usually do their trimming in the winter, when they have time for the job and when tree outlines are most distinct. (No pruning is performed, however, when the temperature falls below 20° F, as such frigid conditions can cause dieback in trimmed limbs.)

On the other hand, if you intend to work with long-neglected trees, you can spot dead limbs and branches more easily when the tree is still bearing leaves . . . which is to say, in the summer.

Summer's also the time to check unwanted sucker growth (see illustration). These unproductive shoots usually arise from old cuts, limb junctions (crotches), or mots near the tree's base. Although they're easily pulled out the first time they appear, such shoots—once established—must be nipped with loppers or sawed off. (Hint: When you cut away a sucker, leave as little stub behind as possible . . . as with any pruning cut. This'll not only prevent recurrent sucker growth but promote proper healing of the wound.)