Grow Onions That Keep All Winter Long
Learn how to grow and harvest onions, including which varieties keep longest and how best to store them.
January/February 1973
By Jack Roland Coggins
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Mature onions should always be dug (never pulled) their roots are left intact. Some gardeners wait until the plants' tops have completely died before harvesting the bulbs but I prefer digging my onions as soon as their growth has stopped (when about one-half the tops have fallen over). The weather is very erratic here in southeast Nebraska and, left in the ground, onions sometimes start a second a growth (which spoils their keeping qualities).
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Think of winter cooking — stew of simmering richly on the back of the stove, maybe, or a pot of hearty split pea soup, or scalloped potatoes bubbling in the oven — and then imagine making any of these cold-weather favorites without onions. Especially home-grown onions.
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A dull prospect, isn't it ... and one that can be avoided quite easily once you know the twin secrets of [1] growing firm, robust onions and [2] storing the bulbs properly so that they'll remain sound for months to come.
STORAGE ONIONS
If you want your onions to keep over the winter, raise the varieties that have been bred to store well. I've been successful with White Sweet Spanish, Downing Yellow Globe and Southport Red Globe. Unfortunately, the outstanding White Bermuda isn't suitable for long-term storage.
Set plants out early.
The single most important fac tor in producing keeper onions is a steady, regular rate of growth. Early planting is essential, there fore, because the bulbs do their best even-paced growing under cool conditions when they're less likely to be shocked by abrupt weather changes. Since this vege table can take a lot of cold, I plant here in southeast Nebraska in late February or during March.
You needn't worry that snow will harm your onion bed ... a few light coverings make sturdier plants and condition the soil around the roots. Spring rains, too, help keep the earth loose — the way these bulbs like it — so don't hesitate to plant even though the soil is still too wet for most crops. Deep cultivation isn't required for setting out onions. The bulbs are planted shallow, with only half an inch or so of very moist soil over the roots.
Plant in full sun.
Unlike most cool-weather crops — which do quite well in spots where shade creeps in part of each day — onions demand full sun for proper development. In my experience, even partial shade encourages onions to "go to stalk", thereby cutting both the quantity and quality of their production.
Maintain constant moisture.
Never allow the soil around onions to dry out. The earth should always feel cool and damp (though not soggy) to the touch. I find that a sprinkler hose which produces a fine mist is best for encouraging even growth.
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