Feed Jelly to Your Orioles

(Page 4 of 4)

June/July 2005
By the Mother Earth News editors 
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We invited readers to send in their contact information if they would be willing to make the axe to sell to other readers. Following is a list of the folks who responded. — Mother

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Mike DeParde
7679 Route 96
Interlaken, NY 14847
dml994@yahoo.com

Mark Terlecke
4758 Delmara Road
Middleton, WI 53562
mjtmm@chorus.net

Steven Wilmarth
202 W. Rincon Peak Trail
Benson, AZ 85602
stevenandteri@theriver.com

Eddie Killian
4008 Copper Kettle Court
Modesto, CA 95355
K5tactical@sbcglobal.net

Ray Rodriguez
910 Kaufman St.
Waxahachie, TX 75165

Don Black
8805 Fessler-Buxton Road
Piqua, OH 45356
mrsartrigs@aol.com

Kelly Warren
701 E. Nelson Ave.
Henryetta, OK 74437
warrenok@sbcglobal.net

Robert Kasebier
1469 Highway 3
Harrisville, NY 13648

Don Klocke
740 4th Ave. S.
Carrington, ND 58421
dmklocke@daktel.com

Kevin Carey
3717 N. College Ave.
Kansas City, MO 64117
hacarey@netscape.com

Make a Stronger Broadaxe

The article about making a “Democratic Axe” said to use “annealed (temperable) steel” — this description covers many different types of steel; some, such as air-hardening tool steels, would be ruined by quenching in water. Of the steel types suitable for quenching in water, probably the cheapest (and most readily available) would be SAE 1060 or 1080 (carbon steel with 0.6-percent or 0.8-percent carbon).

Also, the tempering temperature given (475 degrees) is somewhat on the low side, and will result in a tool that is harder but more brittle than is desirable for an axe or hatchet. Tempering at 500 degrees is a better choice for a tool of this nature. If the metal is polished after hardening, but before tempering, the oxide layer will be a brownish yellow (after passing through pale yellow and straw yellow during heating, but not yet showing traces of purple) when the metal is the proper temperature.

Robert Wolff
Toronto, Ontario

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