CHAINSAW PALACE

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To cut such timbers, we cut six-inch lumber two inches thick (plus an extra quarter-inch to allow for kerf) and cut several boards out of one log and left a small amount of wood holding at the end so the log wouldn't wobble around when it became thinner. Then, when all boards were ripped, we cut the two or three inches holding the timbers and the boards fell free.

To create a tongue-and-groove effect, we stood a 2 x 6 timber on edge and chalked a line down the exact center of the board, then made the groove cut as before. We did this on both sides and then cut a quarter-inch strip two inches wide. The strip or spline was fitted into the first groove and the bottom edge of the next board was fitted over the spline.

We continued this process until the door was wide enough. The splines weatherproofed the project and also concealed any cracks that may have appeared between boards.

We also cut one-inch boards five and six inches wide and grooved the edges. These one-inch boards make excellent wall covering and they are far cheaper than lumber from the supplier. To cut five-inch boards that were one inch thick, we repeated the steps described above: we cut a rectangle five inches wide from a log. Then we simply sliced off boards.

We found that we could cut a five-inch board 10 feet long in about 30 seconds. In an hour, taking time off to rest briefly and to fuel and oil the saw, we could cut 25 to 40 boards if we had the logs handy and already cut into five-inch rectangles. Much of the time needed is devoted to dragging logs and setting them up on saw blocks.

When we were finished, I though...

of just how much a retired teacher, a church musician, and a teenager could do.

We made doors in several ways, depending upon how we planned to use them. The first way was to cut 2 x 6 timbers 85 inches long and to groove cut the edges and then cut splines, as described above. Then we stood the first timber on edge and drilled a three-eighths-inch hole six inches from the top, six inches from the bottom, and in the center. We then constructed a sort of mold or holder that kept boards in place while we worked.

The holder allowed us to place two boards so that the edge of the top timber rested on the top edge of the lower one. Then when we drilled through the top timber we let the drill cut at least an inch or two into the bottom timber. Then we removed the top timber and placed a new timber under the one with the shallow holes drilled in it.

We kept repeating this process until we had enough timbers drilled for the door we needed.

Because we started the new holes in each board as we drilled the one above it, the holes were all perfectly aligned for the next step, which was to insert threaded rods through the holes and then use nuts and socket wrenches to pull the timbers tightly and uniformly together. We then cut off the excess rod and packed homemade wood putty (composed of glue and sawdust mixed thoroughly) around the nut and bolt ends. When the door was hung, there were no nails or bolts or screws visible, and the doors are as strong as any we have found.

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