FALL MULCHING
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Rhododendrons and azaleas both prefer slightly acid soils,
and your mulch selec tion can play a part. I suggest you
choose an organic mulch, like leaves or pine needles. A
dry-leaf mulch (especially oak leaves), spread 10 to 12
inches deep, can be laid down at planting (these will
decompose quickly to give you a 3- or 4-inch layer). A 2-
or 3-inch layer of pine needles will also do the trick.
Wood chips or sawdust—if they are weathered—or
peat moss can be substituted for pine needles.
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If you are using one of these mulches and watering your
rhododendrons following a fertilizer schedule but still
have an unhealthy-looking plant, there must be something
eke going on Maybe you hue an insect or disease problem or
grew the wrong variety for your part of the country. But
let's not blame the mulch. It has a bad enough rap as it N.
Roses, Jug about everyone who grows roses
agrees that putting down a layer of mulch after the ground
has started to cool is necessary to protect plants from
temperature extremes and heaving. What they don't agree on
is how to do it. Mulching roses in the fall is fairly
simple if you remember why you're doing it. Most roses am
amazingly hardy, so Me mulch isn't meant to keep them from
freezing. The goal is to maintain constant temperature and
avoid repeated freezing and taming.
There are hundreds of methods and materials for preparing
roses for winter-almost as many as there are rose growers.
Probably the most accepted is to mound about 10 to 12
inches of mulch around the base of the rosebush. This
should not be done until after the first hard frost. If
done too early, the roses may be fooled into a late growth
spurt, which will delay dormancy and lead to more winter
injury, not less.
What you decide to do from this point is open to all kinds
of possibilities. In areas where Me temperature stays well
below freezing for most of the season, you will want to
provide some additional protection. Some ]can toward the
Styrofoam "rose cones" that fit around the mounds; others
prefer ground corncobs, sawdust, or chopped leaves.
The rose cones work well when used in conjunction with
mounded soil. They can overheat during those sunny January
thaws, so it's a good idea to poke a ventilation hole in
the top. Another suggestion is to weight the cone down with
a stone or something similar; otherwise your rose cones may
end up in the neighbor's yard.