ECOLOGICAL LAWN CARE

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A good lawn raking will break up a moderate thatch buildup. For a more serious case (more than one half inch thick), you might need to rent a vertical mower/power-dethatcher. You will generally find serious thatch problems only III bluegrass, bent grass, Bermuda grass, saint augustine grass and zoysia. In any case, ecologically-minded turf care will generally reduce the problem, since microorganisms and earthworms In a healthy lawn decompose thatch. Synthetic fertilizers and insecticides, improper (i.e., shallow) watering and compacted soil generally increase thatch problems by eliminating soil organisms or encouraging shallow root growth.

A dull, gray-green lawn, especially one that does not spring back when you walk on it, needs water. Northern lawns should generally not be watered: They can go dormant in summer without any ill effects.

However, if you hit a drought during the peak growth periods of spring and fall in the North, or summer in the South, you may need to water to avoid serious lawn stress.

If you must water, do it deeply. Water in the morning and until the soil is moist six to eight inches deep. That may require up to two inches of water at one time. If you have to, water as often as once a week, but never follow the classic American practice of sprinkling a little water over the lawn each day. That only encourages shallow rooting, drought intolerance and thatch buildup. If you are concerned about water waste, use more drought-tolerant fescues or Bermuda grass. In the South, very drought-tolerant (but somewhat coarse and unattractive) grasses such as centipede grass and Bahia grass may eliminate the need for watering altogether.

Here's one more seasonal chore. A heavy fall leaf cover can weaken an otherwise healthy lawn by blocking sunlight. Don't let leaves build up on the lawn for more than a week or so. If you get a lot of leaf fall, you may need to rake three times an autumn.

What, No Pesticides?

Whenever I challenge a synthetic-turf manager, it always comes down to this final line of defense: How can I ever control the hordes of pests waiting to devour my lawn without pesticides? Indeed, there are a number of weeds, insects and diseases that can seriously affect a lawn's health and aesthetic value. In an organic lawn care program, however, the groundwork for effective pest control has already been laid down. A rich, biologically active soil growing thick, healthy, well-cared-for grasses will essentially eliminate the need for chemical toxins.

However, you will need to be vigilant: Pests move in whenever the lawn is less than healthy. Furthermore, an organic lawn-care program does not eliminate pests; rather, it encourages Mother Nature and the grass plants themselves to keep them in check.

This is particularly true of weeds. A thick, vigorous lawn mowed high will shade out most of the weeds.

A research study cut crabgrass 75% by stimulating a good grass stand with proper fall and early spring fertilization. So if you keep your grass dense and mow at a three-inch height, you will essentially eliminate crabgrass and many other common lawn weeds.Inevitably, though, some weed plants will establish themselves. For a truly organic lawn, you may have to accept some extra diversity and tolerate a few.

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