Wild Dreams and Steps to Reality

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That was in 1987, and before long, undaunted by such petty concerns, Whittaker pulled a Kissinger act, powered by his belief that it was people who had to show the leaders of the world what is demanded these days: the twin goals of a peaceful world and a healthy one.

In Beijing, Whittaker asked permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to take some Soviet climbers on yet another ascent of Everest. They said, "Mr. Whittaker, we have not had Soviet climbers in this country for 30 years." Whittaker acknowledged that but added that the Chinese had come to his country, bearing Ping-Pong paddles, after a long absence. Now he and the Russians wanted to come to their country with pitons and climbing axes. They sent him off to see the Great Wall and the Forbidden City and, a few days later, said the idea had merit, but they didn't want to invite the Soviets unless they would definitely come.

In Moscow, Whittaker talked to the Soviet Sports Committee; they sent him off to Red Square and Lenin's Tomb and, a few days later, gave him their approval if he could guarantee that the Chinese would definitely accept them into the country. Back in Belling, the Chinese agreed: "Mr. Whittaker, you can bring your Soviet friends to our mountain."

Then he let the Chinese know that he wanted climbers from the People's Republic to participate. They were pleased but reluctant: They said it couldn't be done.

They were nervous that their climbers weren't up to such an ascent and that the country would lose face if it failed in such a competition. Then Whittaker told them about the rope.

He also told them that another part of the plan was that, upon descending, the team would pick up all the trash from previous climbs of the Chinese side and return Chomolungma to a state of undomesticated grace. Before long, an agreement was signed, sealed, and delivered.
In June 1989, the teams joined in a shakedown climb of Washington's Mount Rainier. There was some good-natured clowning before the ascent as the teams assembled in front of hordes of tourists. A Soviet climber donned a Groucho Marx false nose and glasses. "Glass-nose-t," called out Whittaker's wife, Dianne Roberts, administrative director of the Everest climb. There were also poignant moments: When they met, Soviet team leader Cladimir Shateyev and Chinese team leader Liu Da Yi told each other, "It's good that we get together again after 30 years." This was the first time climbers from the three nations would work together. In a way, it was like an international docking in space, except here the crews of three capsules had congregated. After Rainier, the teams tested themselves yet again by scaling Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus, Europe's highest peak.

Peace and environment aloft

NOW,what is called the Mount Everest Earth Day 20 Peace Climb is under way in earnest. By late February, the teams had convened in Beijing, going from there to Lhasa in Tibet via Sichuan Province. Throughout March, they established a string of supply camps—five in all—from 18,000 to 25,600 feet. That will give them three weeks to inch their way to the uppermost camp. On April 22, the first team will attempt the summit. Incidentally, all climbers will be using special Russian pitons, the only kind made out of titanium, a strategic metal mostly used heretofore in making F-14 fighter planes and submarines. "Talk about guns and plowshares," mused Whittaker with a twinkle.

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