THE MASTER OF MUSHROOM COOKERY
Mushroom recipes from Jack Czarecki, arguably the world's best mushroom chef, including scrambled eggs with mushrooms and onions, wild rice with chanterelles and apricots, Joe's wild mushroom soup.
The flavors of wild mushrooms speak poetry in gourmet
dishes in the world's best restaurants. You can match this
mastery in your own kitchen.
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EXCERPTED FROMJOE'S BOOK OF MUSHROOM COOKERY BY
JACK CZARNECKI.USED WITH PERMISSION OF ANTHENEUM
PUBLISHERS.
To mushroom fanciers, Joe's Restaurant, in Reading,
Pennsylvania, is as alluring and replete with gastronomic
promise as a morel nestled on the forest floor. Joe's is
the country's premier specialist in wild-mushroom dining;
for decades, customers and food critics have hailed it as
one of the finest and most innovative restaurants in the
nation. Here you'll encounter such delicacies as Morels
Marie (morels stuffed with pheasant mousse), Snails Suillus
pictus with a mustard and caper sauce, Crusted Beef in
Black Trumpet Sauce, and the more basic but legendary Joe's
Wild Mushroom Soup. Here, too, you'll find Jack Czarnecki,
third generation chef and proprietor of Joe's, author of
Joe's Book of Mushroom Cookery, and one of the
country's foremost experts on finding, preparing,
preserving, and serving fungi.
Jack's knowledge of mushrooms is a legacy from his
grandparents, who learned to gather mushrooms in Poland and
later taught their son (Jack's father) how to do the same
in the Blue Mountains near Reading. Now Jack and his entire
family-his mother and father, his wife, Heidi, and his
three children-hunt mushrooms every day during the season,
sometimes bringing back as many as 20 or 30 different kinds
for the restaurant's larder.
But Jack is quick to point out that, although identifying
and picking edible wild mushrooms is best left to those
with experience, wild-mushroom cookery can be explored by
anyone. Fresh wild mushrooms are now available (in season)
at markets in many areas...and some "wild" species such as
shiitake, oyster mushrooms, and enoki, are cultivated on
mushroom "farms." Wild mushrooms are also available canned
or dried. (Dried mushrooms are preferable to canned for
culinary purposes, says Jack, and for some species-such as
the cep-they're superior even to fresh specimens in some
recipes.) And don't judge the commercial button mushroom,
Agaricus brunnescens, too harshly, he says; it is,
after all, what most of us think of when we think
mushroom, and is perfectly acceptable for many
dishes.
In Joe's Book of Mushroom Cookery ($20.95,
Atheneum), Jack explains how to choose, prepare, can, and
dry mushrooms, as well as how to make everything from basic
stocks and extracts to entrees that marry mushrooms with
poultry, fish, pasta, and eggs. Here is just a sampling of
the many fine recipes to be savored from Joe's Book of
Mushroom Cookery.
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