Dog Packing

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Tired of Rover's roaming while you stagger along under a heavy backpack?

When the winter snows finally melt up here in Alaska, we put away our dog sleds and skis. Why, we even let the huskies relax for a while . . . until summer comes and it's time to bring out the dog packs!

We use these pint-size "saddlebags" for activities that range from short berry-picking hikes to major cross-country expeditions, and we've found that our pack-toting canines can really ease our burdens. A trained dog-in good condition-can carry up to a third of its own weight (and more than that for a short distance). That means that a 90-pound husky can support 30 pounds of dog food, camping equipment, berries, fish, or whatever else can be stuffed into a pouch.
It's pretty obvious that the bigger the dog, the more it can pack. Malamutes are a good breed for packing, being large and sturdily built. Other sled dogs-such as our local "village" breed and Alaskan huskies are likely to have longer legs and lighter frames than malamutes, which limit the amount they can transport. Still, these other types are very tough and won't wear out if they're not overloaded. Large breeds such as Saint Bernards and Great Pyrenees are fine for packing, too, though thickly furred animals have a tendency to become overheated. But whether a dog is traditionally suited for packing or not, any canine-be it a mastiff or a Chihuahua-can be taught to carry its share of the load.

THE PACK

The basic dog pack consists of two simple pouches-one hanging on each side of the animal's rib cage-connected by a cloth saddle that rests on the dog's back. The underside of the saddle should be padded as a protection against friction sores or gouges from sharp cornered objects carried in the sacks, and the carrier should be securely fastened on by means of a harness. This rigging usually includes a chest strap, one or two belly straps, and sometimes a tail strap . . . all of which can be adjusted to prevent the dog from throwing off the pack.

When loading the pouches, always be careful to balance their weights evenly. If one is heavier than the other by even a small amount, the pack will become lopsided, with one sack hanging near the ground and the other riding the dog's back uncomfortably. Unequal weighting will throw the animal off balance, and the low satchel may even drag along the ground or snag on bushes.

Put any weighty objects in the bottom of the pouches to keep the dog from being top heavy. And if you tie extra gear on the outside of the carrier, make sure that there are no loose ends or exposed flaps . . since such protrusions may catch on a branch, jerk the dog, and perhaps tear the sack's material.

Some dog packs have a handy wraparound strap, which simply loops around the dog pack and all-to hold everything securely in place. This surcingle also keeps each pouch in its proper position, preventing it from slipping up over the dog's back as it goes through thick brush. If you buy a model that does not have this useful feature, you can easily make such a strap with a length of I " nylon webbing-long enough to pass over the dog's body and the pack once or twice-with a metal O-ring or similar buckle attached at one end.

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