An Introduction to Log Construction

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However, you must have a supply of good logs to use the full-scribe method. Some of the rounds on that craft shop are 14" across at one end but only 8" across at the other. That means they're tapering 6 inches from tip to tip. Well, you can use logs like that when you're going to fill the gaps between them with chinking—as we did on the shop—but you can't do it if you're going to build a tight-fitting Scandinavian—style building in which the logs fit right on top of each other. (Well, you could do it, but it'd be clanged difficult.) Ideally, the logs used in a full-scribe project shouldn't taper more than a couple of inches from butt to tip. In fact, we built our cabin in the chink style simply because we didn't have enough good logs around to do it the tight-fit way. I'd rather have used the full-scribe method. After all, there're fewer gaps where air can get in if the logs are resting right on each other, so fullscribe construction should produce a more nearly airtight building.

At any rate, I'm going to tell you how to cut your timbers for the full-scribe procedure and then explain how to modify that technique to suit the chink-style lay-up you see in the craft shop. First, you'll need a scribe, which consists of a set of dividers with bubble levels-set for the two horizontal axes-on the back.

To begin, center the log you're going to cut so it's above and parallel to the one it's supposed to fit over. Then find the maximum gap between those two logs, and set that interval plus 1/4 inch on your scribe. Now, holding the tool with both bubbles set level, trace-drawing as you go-all the way along the top log. Your scribe will, of course, rise in a semicircle over each of the two log ends your round is going to rest upon. [EDITOR'S NOTE: Ricky demonstrated this to the class. Since we can't do that "live"; we've illustrated the procedure in Fig. 1.]

Scribe both sides of your log in this fashion. Next, you've got to cut out two round notches across it (to accommodate those right-angled log ends) and one V-notch going down its length. To form the round notches, get a chain saw with a high chain speed, saw straight down to the center of the notch, and then cut in to that point from each side. [See Fig. 2a.] That'll get rid of most of the wood.

Now, make a series of vertical cuts [as shown in Fig. 2b]—each only the width of the saw's chain—working from the center out. Use the tip of the bar, and let it ride in a little to make the curve bowl-shaped. When you're done, you should be able to set a straightedge across the notch (at right angles to the log) and still slip your fingers underneath it.

Finally, you can smooth out the sides by running your saw back and forth at 90° to the curve until the cut is as smooth as it would be if done with a wood chisel. [See Fig. 2c.] It may take you an hour to shape your first notch this way, but once you get the hang of it, you can make one in five minutes or so.

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