FIND FREEDOM IN A CANOE
(Page 2 of 8)
The sleek river runners come in a confusing variety of
sizes, designs, and materials . . . simply because there is
no perfect, all-purpose canoe. You'll want to choose the
style most suited to the type of paddling you'll be doing.
For example, will you be cruising on flat water or running
the rapids? Do you plan to travel as a solo paddler or with
a partner? Are you primarily interested in fishing, racing,
or canoe camping? These factors—and a good many
others—can influence your choice of equipment.
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DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
In general, it's best to select the longest canoe that
suits your needs. Although they're lightweight, the shorter
craft (those from 10' to 13') tend to ride low in the
water, offer little room for gear, and are typically slower
and more unstable than are longer canoes. So even if you
intend to paddle solo, you'll want to choose a 14-footer,
at least.
Most canoeists prefer a 16' to 18' craft. The standard 17'
size travels swiftly when powered by two paddlers, has the
capacity to carry a good bit of gear, and is easy to handle
in white water. Canoes over 17' have an increased
capacity (meaning that they ride higher in the water than
would a shorter canoe loaded with the same weight), but in
gaining that advantage they sacrifice maneuverability.
Therefore, craft 18' or longer are used primarily for
cruising on flat water.
When selecting a canoe length, you should also be aware of
the craft's beam (the width of the boat at its widest
point) and the degree of fullness from the beam to the ends
of the craft. The more pointed and narrow a canoe, the
faster it will travel . . . however, that speed is achieved
at the expense of stability.
Another aspect of canoe design is depth. On a
wind-protected river you'll want a center depth of about
15", in order to be sure you have adequate freeboard
(that's the height of the craft's side above the
water-line) to prevent white-water waves from splashing
into your lap and swamping the canoe. On an open lake,
however, the wind will tend to catch such high sides and
blow you off course, so a shallower craft—11" to
12"—would be more appropriate.
Hull configuration will play an important role in
determining your canoe's specific function, too. There are
two basic types of hulls: flat-bottomed and rounded (see
Fig. 2). The former design has a very shallow draft (the
amount of boat that rides under the water), ample
cargo-carrying capacity, and stability. This type of canoe
is generally the choice of fisherfolk, since it gives an
angler room to stand up and cast, and will remain
relatively steady while he or she does so. Variations of
the flat-bottomed hull are the "shallow V" and the "shallow
arch" designs. Each of these configurations results in a
canoe that initially is somewhat tippier than is a
flat-bottomed boat, but has a greater reserve stability if
the craft should really begin to go over, and such designs
are sometimes preferred for general-purpose recreational
canoes.
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