HOSTELING, U.S. STYLE

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Other regulations that hostelers must abide by are matters of safety and common courtesy: Most hostels observe "quiet hours" from 11:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. (although urban facilities generally stay open somewhat later) . . . smoking isn't permitted in kitchens, bunk rooms, or dining areas (in some cases it's restricted to the outdoors) . . . and alcohol and drugs are prohibited.

In addition to offering overnight accommodations, AYH sponsors one- to two-week hosteling tours, such as cycling . . . and hiking excursions.

PHOTOS BY BERT SCHWARZCHILD

HOW TO HITCH UP WITH A HOSTEL
Hostels were developed primarily to serve individuals traveling under their own steam, such as bikers, hikers, climbers, canoeists, and cross-country skiers. Folks journeying by private motor vehicles and public transportation are welcome, though, as long as they plan to spend their stay pursuing cultural, educational, or outdoor recreational activities.

You'll need to become a member of the American Youth Hostels, Inc. in order to register at the hikers' hotels. But anyone is welcome to join. (The word "youth" in the organization's name is misleading: People of all ages can be, and are, members.)

Annual membership rates are $7 for junior citizens (age 17 and under) and seniors (60 and up), $14 for individuals 18 to 59 years of age, and $21 for families. A life membership can be had for $140. Recognized nonprofit organizations—such as camps, church groups, or schools—may purchase an Organizational Pass, covering up to 25 people a night, for $35 a year. (See the ordering information at the end of this article.)

And anyone who'd like to give hosteling a try before becoming a full-fledged member can purchase a $2.00 introductory pass directly from one of the lodges. This pass, along with the hostel's standard fee, will buy a single night's stay.

PHOTO BY THE AUTHOR

THE SECRET LIFE OF A HOSTEL
The stone and clapboard structure pictured here—which is set on a wooded bluff overlooking the majestic Potomac River—has led a long, varied life. It was first christened "Potomac View". . . and served as a rowdy roadhouse. Later, it was an auction site . . . and the rooms were filled with fast talk and cold cash. Then, in 1962, the building settled into a comfortable middle age as the Kiwanis Youth Hostel. . . over which my husband and I preside as house-parents.

Although it is showing some signs of its long tenure as a building brimming with people, the haven still houses several hundred travelers each season. It's said that no two nights are ever the same at any hostel, and this one is no exception. Yesterday evening, for example, two trekking teenaged buddies contributed their foraged greens and berries to a community supper shared with a septuagenarian hiker, three Japanese sisters, and a cross-country bicyclist on the last leg of her journey. Tonight, while I write this, a group of weary college students (back from a day of white-water rafting) roast marshmallows and swap stories with a graying couple who are touring by car . . . a teacher from Denmark . . . and a half-dozen Boy Scouts on a two-week canoe trip. And—as often happens on summer nights—a handful of hot and hungry backpackers are seated at the table, making short work of a gallon of ice cream.

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