Hunting the Wild Honey Tree
(Page 5 of 7)
Of course, you'll need something to put your honey in, too.
I've found that lightweight plastic buckets are good for
this purpose, since they can be stacked one inside the
other when empty and are easy to carry. The amount of
container capacity required will depend on how lucky a find
you make. A bee tree can contain anywhere from no honey to
(on rare occasions) 15 to 20 gallons. Be sure you take
along a large metal spoon to dip up any honey from combs
that may be broken by the tree's fall, and a large, soft
brush to whisk away the bees from slabs of honeycomb.
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BEE TREE BURGLARY
Before you tackle the task of felling the tree, calm the
bees down by smoking them. (Smokers can be bought from bee
supply houses, or—perhaps—borrowed from a
neighbor who keeps hives.) If the colony is too high up to
accomplish this easily, the smoking should be done as soon
as the tree is on the ground.
It's preferable to fell the bees' habitat with a chain saw
rather than an axe if you have a choice. Smoked bees will
often remain surprisingly calm when a saw is used, while
the repeated thumps of an axe usually excite them. Whatever
method you employ, try to drop the tree as gently as
possible—letting its own branches, other trees,
and/or an uphill slope break the fall—since a jolting
crash will smash the honeycomb, kill bees unnecessarily,
and create a general mess.
If you're not planning to capture the insects, the easiest
way of removing the honey is to split a rectangular slab
out of the side of the fallen tree, using an axe or chain
saw and wedges. But first try to figure out the extent of
the cavity. This can be done fairly accurately by looking
up the bottom of the felled tree, peering through any holes
and splits, and tapping on the trunk. (Make the very best
estimate possible, or you and your tools could end up
covered with honey.)
The slab that has to be removed will probably be 36" to 60"
long and 10" to 18" wide, depending on how much of the
hollow is suspected of being inhabited. Make the top and
bottom cuts first, then connect them with longer cuts
running lengthwise down the trunk. Since the second pair
will pass close to the mass of bees and honeycomb, every
effort should be made to keep the blade out of the cavity.
It's better to err on the shallow side than to cause
needless bee and brood deaths and loss of honey by slicing
too deep, especially since wedges can always be used to
help pry a slab free.
Once the interior of the colony is exposed, lift the sheets
of honeycomb and put them in your containers. (Keep the
filled pails covered, or they'll soon be alive with bees.)
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