AT HOME ON THE (ARCHERY) RANGE

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KNOW YOURSELF

If at all possible, have a knowledgeable archer advise you on equipment before you make any purchases, or—at least—go to an archery shop or shooting range where you can talk to someone who knows how to fit you properly. However, if you don't have access to any sort of expert help, you should be able to avoid serious errors by keeping the following information in mind.

First of all, you should know that whether you'll shoot right- or left-handed is determined by your "master eye" . . . not by which hand you normally use. To find out which side you most naturally aim on, roll a sheet of paper into a 1" tube. Keeping both eyes open, hold the tube at arm's length and look through the cylinder at a small object across the room. Then, without moving the tube, close first one eye and then the other. The one with which you can see the object is your master—or dominant—eye. If it's your left eye, you should shoot left-handed . . . right eye, right-handed.
Don't despair if, for instance, you're righthanded and left-eyed. That's my situation, and I spent eight years as a mediocre righthanded archer before I got the courage to switch to the left . . . and now I wonder how I hit anything at all before!

Next, you'll need to know your draw length and how much draw weight you can comfortably handle. You can find this information by visiting a store that has a good sampling of bows. To determine your draw length, simply grip a bow in your left hand (all directions will be given for righthanded shooters, and lefties can reverse them). Hold your left arm out at shoulder level, pointing to the left. With your head turned to look at the bow, place a long arrow on the bow's arrow rest, hold the nock (that part of the arrow that goes on the string) between your index and middle fingers, and place it against the corner of your mouth. At this time you should neither put the arrow on the string nor pull the string. While you stand in a comfortable shooting position, have a friend mark the arrow at the point where it touches the part of the bow farthest from your face. The distance between that mark and the nock is your draw length.

You can determine the proper draw weight by simply trying several different bows. (If you're pulling compounds, be sure they're on their lightest settings.) You should be able to hold a bow at full draw for seven to ten seconds without shaking. If the strain has you quivering after a couple of seconds, the bow is too heavy for you. (When you try this, be sure to let the bowstring down gently. Never release the string suddenly without an arrow in it, because "dry firing"-even if done only oncecan damage a bow.)

Resist any temptation to let your ego help you choose a draw weight. Always keep in mind that archery is not a test of strength, but rather of skillful coordination between the muscles and the mind. If you get a bow that you can't handle comfortably, you won't enjoy shooting it, and you'll soon give up the sport. (Here's a general guide for choosing appropriate draw weights: preteens, 20 pounds or less ... young teenagers, 20 to 25 pounds ... adult women, 30 to 40 pounds ... and adult men, 35 to 50 pounds.)

If the string on the bow of your choice doesn't come with a nocking locator, install one. (Crimp-on units can be found at archery and sporting goods shops.) This will usually consist of a small ring of metal and rubber placed around the bowstring, indicating the proper spot to nock the arrow. To install the device correctly, use a carpenter's square or T-square to determine the point that's level with the bow's arrow rest. Place the nocking locator 1/4 inch above this point.

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