BICYCLING BACK TO THE BASICS

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Another way to increase the safety and comfort of your ride is by attaching toe clips to the bike's pedals. Contrary to popular opinion, it's not difficult to remove your feet quickly from such stirrups in an emergency . . . provided you leave adequate slack in the adjustable straps.

Be sure to protect your eyes with sunglasses or goggles. And always be on the lookout for motorists who don't see you. Pay particular attention when passing parked cars, too. (Jim once suffered a painful injury when a car door opened in his path.) In addition, always remember to ride with the traffic, never against it. If an accident should occur, being hit from behind is less likely to be fatal than is a headon collision.

Gravel, potholes, and sand all pose threats to your safety. Lift your weight off the seat whenever you encounter such hazards. Also be careful to avoid sewer grates ... and always try to cross railroad tracks at right angles.

LIBERATE YOURSELF!

If you've made the decision to change from automobile to bicycle, it's important that you select the bike that's best suited to your needs. Don't rush out and buy the nearest department store's special. Such a cycle may cost less initially . . . but in the long run you'll use up your "savings"—ten-fold—remedying the problems you'll likely encounter.

Top-of-the-line machines are the best buys, and they're not inexpensive. Expect to pay about $250 for your bike, and be sure to earmark another $125 for accessories. Remember that, although this sounds like a pretty sizable investment (which it is), it's nothing when compared with the cost of a new—or even a good used—car.

To check for the proper "fit" of your bike, straddle the top bar ("boys' style" wheelers, with crossbars, are far more structurally sound and therefore more desirable for both men and women). When both of your feet are flat on the ground, your torso should clear the bar by less than an inch.

Proper seat height is determined by sitting on the bicycle while someone holds it upright. When you move the pedal into the down position, your leg should be almost straight. And, for a perfect fit, the seat level should be slightly higher than that of the handlebars.

While we're on the subject of handlebars, I should mention that many people seem to have fond memories of the upright units on the bikes they rode as children. Unfortunately, a long ride on a bi cycle with upright handlebars will result in a backache you won't soon forget.

The "drop-style" bars may look uncomfortable, but once you've ridden with them a few times you'll never go back to the "kiddy" kind. (For one thing, the downcurving handlebars allow the rider to change hand positions frequently to avoid overstressing a particular set of muscles.)

Tell the cycle dealer you want a wide touring gear ratio that includes a very low gear for uphill climbs. Bikes are usually set up for racing instead of as basic transportation . . . so it's important that your dealer make this adjustment.

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