Cross-Country Skiing

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There are two further considerations you'll have to remember when purchasing skis: First, get them long enough to reach the palm of your hand when your arm is extended over your head ... and then check the camber by sliding a piece of paper under the ski while it's resting on a hard floor. Without weight on the runner, the paper should slip freely in and out... with your weight on the board, the paper should be clamped tight (if you're a recreational skier) or be just barely able to move (if you're a more aggressive snow strider).

POLE-ING YOUR OWN WEIGHT

Cross-country skiing poles do more than just help you keep your balance ... they also contribute substantially to your ability to maintain forward motion. At one time, all Nordic poles were made of Tonkin bamboo, but science (and merchandising) marches on ... and now the choice of materials ranges from fiberglass ... through aluminum ... to the racy (and expensive) carbon fiber. Unless you're planning to compete, however, the less costly Tonkin or fiberglass poles will do fine. Choose poles that reach to your armpits ... and remember to get sturdy ones:
You'll be using 'em to stop as well as to go forward!

SHOE ‘NUFF

Bindings were once pretty well standardized, too. With the exception of ski mountaineers, who used cable clamps, most cross-country skiers secured their boards with what came to be called "Nordic Norm" bindings ... little metal devices about 75mm wide (varying from 71mm for youngsters to 79mm for "big-feet") that held the elongated toe of the ski boot between a clamp and three prongs. (The heel of the boot remains free in Nordic skiing ... so the athlete can work up a good kicking motion without banging him- or herself in the back of the head with a ski!)

Then came the 1976 Olympics, and the introduction of a special 38mm racing binding developed by Adidas. This new binding offered two advantages: Since it moved the point of flex forward of the toes, more power could be transmitted to the skis, while—at the same time—the sole of the boot could be made more rigid to improve turning ability (the loose heel that makes cross-country skiing possible also makes intricate maneuvers a bit difficult to master).

Moreover, while the 38mm binding is too narrow for purposes other than racing, the whole idea of the forward flex and increased torsional rigidity was a good one.

Consequently, many manufacturers began producing 50mm boot-binding combinations in two forms: a racing style, in which the sole of the boot is a thin 7mm ... and touring units, with soles a warmer 12mm thick. So instead of a single binding, cross-country skiers can now choose among four: the 75mm "Nordic Norm", the 50mm "Racing Norm", the 50mm "Touring Norm", and the 38mm "Adidas Norm".

What does all the variety mean to the novice? Well, not all that much ... you're still best off renting each kind at least once and selecting the type you like best. Here's a point to consider, however: If there's more than one pair of skis in the family, do try to standardize—for the sake of interchangeability—on one type.

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