North Idaho, Country Life, and the Vienna Woods

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About Eurailpass: I've never found it to be worth the money (although-conceivably-it could pay for itself if you intend to spend a lot of time on trains). I did quite a bit of moving around on my last trip through Europe and still foundwhen I tallied up my second class faresthat my expenses came to about two-thirds of what a Eurailpass would have cost for the same period of time. Of course, Eurailpass does put you in first class accommodations ... but unless you enjoy meeting retired Americans who demand to know why everybody can't speak English, second class (which is where all the really interesting retired Americans and other folks are) is more fun. Some people swear by Eurailpass. I don't.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Ever read Frommer's Europe on $10 a Day? Wonderful book. It contains lots of encouragement for the faint of heart. (I read Arthur Frommer's first book when he and I were PFC's stationed in Germany in 1956, and it encouraged me then,) You certainly couldn't go wrong buyingand taking alonga copy of this marvelous guide. Do remember this, though: Frommer's books have been translated into virtually every language except Urdu, and they're read by millions of people worldwide. Thus, when you're rushing to that little-known hotel on Belgravia Road near Victoria Station in London after getting off the Golden Arrow from Paris ... don't be surprised to find 50 Japanese touristsheavily burdened with cameras and Japanese-language Arthur Frommer booksrushing to the same hotel at the same time.

Americans, incidentally, are no longer the most prolific tourists in Europe. Every country (the Land of the Rising Sun in particular) is represented now. (Europeans feel that the Japanese are the only true Americans left in the world today.)

If you plan to go to Europe any time duringor even nearthe tourist season (June through October, roughly), be sure to arrange your schedule so that you can begin hunting for your hotel room in the morning. Otherwiseif you don't find a room by noonyou might as well forget about getting one in the major cities.

"Why not reserve rooms ahead of time?" you might ask. OK, go right ahead. Then, when your companionor perhaps even a strangersays (while sipping juice in a wine bar in Chelsea) "Hey, why don't we hop the Golden Arrow to Paris? It leaves in an hour, and if we get on it we could be in Paris by morning . . . " you can say, "Sorry, but I've already reserved a room in Blackpool". Or, if your companion had booked ahead, you'd have to leave her (or him) behind. I'll keep my itinerary open, thank you.

One last suggestion: If you have a lot of trouble getting a room and you don't mind sleeping on a trainand you could stand to save a little money by combining your sleeping time with your travel time-by all means consider sleeping as you go. Most International Expresses are night trains, and night trains are an experience all by themselves. (Tip: Take along a companion.)

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