ONE MAN'S FOREST

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

One such case of neglect is a ten-acre red pine plantation on an excellent site. The owners were enthusiastic about using it as a demonstration plot, and welcomed the three-row layout. Fifteen years later it was a shambles of waist-high weeds and self-sown white pine, cherry, birch and poplar. The pine had been pruned once to six or eight feet and there were some fine young trees four to six inches in diameter, but many were crowded by this invading growth. Any improvement work such as a thinning for pulpwood or posts, or even the removal of invading weed trees, was going to be difficult, and expensive in time or money or both. In another five or ten years the sturdiest of the present trees can probably be harvested, but the plantation will have produced only a small fraction of its potential.

HOW TO PLANT SEEDLINGS

Planting seedlings is a relatively simple operation. The quickest method involves a team of two and a narrow spade. Number 1 drives the spade vertically into the ground and pushes the handle away from him. This makes a V-shaped hole. Number 2 places the seedling in the hole close to the vertical side, spreading the roots as he does so. The root collar—noticeable as the point on the seedling that indicates the top of the root growth—should be the point where the seedling stem emerges from the soil, just at ground level. Number 1 slips the spade out of the hole, not disturbing the seedling roots, and moves to the next site. Number 2 pushes the disturbed soil back in place, closing the hole, stamps on both sides of the slit to compact the soil somewhat and prevent air from getting at the roots and moves on to join his partner.

A slower method, which is said to produce a higher survival rate, may be desirable if the ground is very dry, or if there is heavy sod. In this case a round-nose shovel may be used to advantage. First step is to scoop off a piece of sod at the planting site. Then a shovelful of soil is lifted out, and another from the opposite side to make a round hole. The seedling goes in, with well-spread roots, and dirt goes back in the hole. The seedling is held to keep the root collar at ground level. More dirt goes in to fill the hole, then two or three stamps with the foot compact the fill to exclude air. Important details: avoid crowding the roots; position the root collar at ground level for proper depth; compact the soil firmly to wind up the operation.

Planting can be done with a mattock or with a special type of spade called a planting bar or dibble. Mattock technique is substantially the same as with a spade. The planting bar, however, requires three thrusts into the ground compared to the single stroke with the spade. The first thrust with the bar goes in at an angle, the handle held toward the user. The bar is then pushed forward to the vertical to make a V-shaped slot. The seedling goes in against the vertical side of the slot after the bar is withdrawn. The bar is moved back toward the planter about two inches, and pushed straight down. The handle is then pulled back so the blade will pivot forward to firm the soil at the bottom of the roots of the seedling just planted, then pushed forward to close the top. This leaves another hole. The bar moves back another two inches toward the planter, goes in straight, then the handle moves back and forth to fill the hole. A kick with the heel packs down this spot, then the soil around the seedling is packed down. End of operation.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print