The Plains Indian Tipi

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Shop around. I priced waterproofed 8 oz. duck from $1.10 to $1.75 and 10 oz. at $1.25 to $2.00 a running yard in Cleveland while writing this article. I believe I could have found lower prices if I had really gotten into it . . . so use the old purchasing. agent's rule of thumb: Always get at least three quotes before making any major purchase.

[1] Cut six pieces of 36" wide, 8 or 10 oz. canvas (8 oz. is much easier to work, makes a lighter tipi and is less expensive) 38'6", 38', 36'7", 34'4", 30'10" and 25'10" long.

Find the center of each piece and spread out the canvas as shown in Figure 1. The strips should be laid together like shingles on a roof so water will run off, rather than under, the seams.

A flat seam, like dressmakers use on a shirt, is recommended for sewing the strips together. If you intend to "farm out" this part of the job, try to find a tent maker who will use flat seams. I'm sure there's a better way . . . but here's a method we worked out for sewing such seams:
(a) If your canvas is 36" wide (37", counting selvage), lay two strips together with what will be the inside surfaces of the fabric touching and outside surfaces away from each other. The strip that is longest (and will later end up on top) should be on the bottom and extending three-quarters of an inch.
(b) Turn the allowance edge evenly up over the edge of the top strip and sew. A double stitch is highly recommended.
(c) Flop the two pieces of canvas over and . . .
(d) . . . swing the strip which is now on the bottom through until it is an extension of the new top strip.
(e) Run another row of double stitches down the lower edge of the seam.
The finished flat seam will look like Detail f on Figure 1.

[2] When all six strips are sewed together, lay the cover out flat again and locate the center of the upper (longest) strip. Measure down 20 inches from the top edge of this strip and out 8'6" in both directions from its center line. Cut off and remove the 20" by approximately 10'9" rectangles from the two upper corners of the strip.

Note that the cut made perpendicular to the edge of the canvas is extended to a depth of 24" even though the piece removed is only 20" deep. The extra four inches will later be turned under for a hem.

Sew the two removed panels into one strip. Center and attach this long narrow piece to the bottom of the 25'10" strip. This will extend the whole canvas enough to allow you to chalk and cut a 19'3" radius from the center of the top edge of the tipi cover.

Set a peg at point "X" and swing your chalk on a length of cord that will not stretch. You can also drill a hole for the peg in a board or piece of plywood, drill a second hole for the chalk in another and nail the two sections to a 2X4 so that the holes are the proper distance apart.

The selvage on tent canvas - unlike the selvage on most other fabrics - is not cut off and removed. This means that your 36" wide material is actually 37" wide. The pattern we are using was designed to give you the most tipi from the least material and - if your six seams across the cover are one half to three-quarters of an inch wide - the 19' 3" radius will not run off the bottom edge of the pieced-together fabric. If the radius does run off the bottom, don't worry. Just cut another scrap and piece out the bottom center a little further . . . or pull in the string and make the radius 19'1" or 19'2". You'll never notice the slight difference in final tipi size.

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