Cordless Drills and Drivers

(Page 3 of 3)

December/January 2005
By Steve Maxwell 
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You should look at 18-volt models if youll be drilling regularly in steel, masonry or medium-sized timbers. The only trouble with 18-volt models is their weight and cost: They're a bit heavy for screw driving and more expensive than necessary if you don't require the power. A 24-volt drill (see photo above) has huge amounts of power and is best if you'll be drilling big holes in large timbers in new construction or doing barn frame repairs.

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Pay attention to the amp-hour rating of the drill or driver you choose (they range from 1.7 to 3). If voltage can be compared to the size of the motor, then amp-hours is the size of the gas tank. A higher rating means more work can be done per charge.

Many drills are sold together with two batteries and a charger. Because batteries can lose 25 percent of their stored power in the first three days after being charged —and 1 percent to 2 percent for each day thereafter — choose a smart charger that uses a microprocessor to deliver an optimum charge, and then keep the spare battery in the charger. The best advice for cordless tool users is simply to recharge a battery as soon as you observe a drop in performance and keep the battery in a smart charger until its needed.

A good drill driver or impact driver is one of the most valuable tools for self-sufficiency. Choose a contractor-grade kit with a one-hour charger and two batteries, and youll be one step closer to making good things happen for yourself.

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