LIVING THE DREAM FOR A DOLLAR AN ACRE

(Page 7 of 9)

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The Mantis works best when worked gently backwards, against the forward momentum of its tiller blades. It is most effective milling up already prepared soil to two-inch to three-inch depths, but given time, can get down a foot or more into fresh sod — deeper than any full-size rotary tiller. We applauded the Mantis in an earlier article, so we will merely add that this is one tiller that anyone really can operate with just one hand.

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As with the DR, there are other makes of small tiller-cultivators and most of them function well. Some are copies of the Mantis design, and some have been around for decades — far longer than Mantis itself. We hope to test a few in issues to come, but we think we owe our respect to the little Pennsylvania mail-order firm that had the gumption to invest in the engineering to produce a superior product and that had the marketing vision to make us aware of the usefulness of a mini-tiller in the first place.

Return of the Wheel Hoe

If you do have a garden that can be measured in fractional acres, you are running a de facto truck garden and will be cultivating more soil than a hoe or a Mantis can handle.

To break ground you'll surely want a small tractor or big tiller. But for less power-intensive small farming chores, we are pleased to note the reappearance of hand-pushed wheel hoes. Designed originally in the horse-farming days, they were sized to cultivate plots that were too big for hand-hoeing and too small or closely-planted to warrant harnessing the horse and setting up the cultivator.

The wheel hoe is patterned on the old-time horse-drawn cultivator. In some places a pony, a wether goat, or even a large dog is single-tree harnessed to the frame and trained to ease the work load. The tool features a pair of plow-handles leading down to a mini-draw push bar, to which you can attach a small moldboard plow, disks, or arrays of several kinds of cultivators: hilling plows, spades, spikes, hooks and more. A wheel — either a yard-high bicycle-spoked wheel (in the high-wheeled Kentucky design), or a six-inch to eighteen-inch diameter wheel with iron rim and spokes, or a solid-steel rubber-tired wheel (in the original Planet Junior low-wheel pattern) — is out in front of the tools and hung to keep the frame just off the soil while the tools bite as deep as you like.

Without the help of a beast, you adjust the tools on the bar to plow or disk one or two furrows or to cultivate between as many rows as possible. You try to accomplish, in a single pass, as much as is reasonable with your own muscles. In most soils, you must dig the tools) in and roll the wheel hoe forward, then pull it back on the wheel and push forward again as far as you can manage. An acre or two of this constant back-and-forth labor does build up your back, shoulders, and arms.

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