Mother's Workshop: Easier Log Cutting and Storing

(Page 4 of 4)

October/November 1996
By David Mukamal Camp 
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This will keep the sides and corners of the opening and the cutout straight and square. Tip the tool up onto the front of its base and start it running; then slowly lower the blade into the wood. Cut the tray back (I) and sides (J) from some scrap wood, and rabbet the ends of the back and the cutout to accept the tray sides. Make the tray bottom (K) from 1/8" plywood (a scrap of wall paneling works well).

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Fit it into a groove cut on the back of the cutout and a rabbet along the bottom of the other tray parts. Glue and nail this simple drawer together, and fit it into the space between the bottom panels. Before attaching the lid, turn the box over and install the casters.

Putting a Lid on It

Miter the ends of the lid cleats (D) as shown in the plans. Lay the three shiplapped lid boards (H) upside down on your workbench and mark the position for the cleats. Clamp them in place and flip the assembly over to drive in the screws. Now set the lid in place and position the last plank. Mark and rip this to width and glue and screw it to the upper rail. Install the hinges directly over the cleats.

The box doesn't need any sort of finish (that's the best part about using rough wood) but it's a good idea to break the corners with some rough sandpaper, or use a rasp to ease the edges and add to the worn, rustic look. With that done, the easy work is out of the way; now it's time to start cutting and splitting those BTUs to fill the box.

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  • Willie 12/19/2008 3:01:12 PM

    hope to build

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