Mother's Workshop: Easier Log Cutting and Storing
(Page 3 of 4)
October/November 1996
By David Mukamal Camp
Cut them to the lengths given in the cutting list for parts F, G, and H. The average thickness of my 1 x 6 planks was 5/8" and the widths averaged 5 3/8". You may need to adjust the dimensions shown in the plans to accommodate the wood you buy. I cut shiplap joints (an overlapping rabbet joint used in boatbuilding) on the plank edges that abut other planks—not because I was concerned about the seaworthiness of my firewood box, but because it would conceal gaps between the uneven edges of the boards. To do this, arrange the four boards that comprise one side, and mark the edges for rabbeting, leaving the edges that don't meet other boards (such as the top edge of the side) unmarked.
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Put'" worth of dado cutters on your table saw, and set it to a depth equal to just a bit more than half the thickness of your average fence board. Cover the table saw fence with a wooden auxiliary fence so you can position it right next to the blade, and rabbet the marked edges. Cut shiplap joints on the planks for the top as well, but leave the back edge of the third board and both edges of the fourth board unrabbeted. The final step before assembling all this kindling is to cut the relief on the lower planks.
Clamp together the two bottom side boards (F) and the two bottom end boards (G) and cut the reliefs as shown, using a saber saw. Now attach the side boards to the uprights (C). When you have two completed sides, attach them to the bottom assembly, making sure there's enough clearance for the casters. I found it helpful to use the short rails (B) to support the side assemblies while I drove the screws. Installing those short rails is the next step; simply replace the short screw holding the fence board to the upright with one that's long enough to grab the short rail. Glue and screw the two remaining long rails (A) along the top of the side boards (F). Now you can attach the four boards (G) that make up one end.
Before you attach the boards to the other end, cut out the portion of the lower end board that will serve as the front of the debris tray. Lay the box with its unfinished end up, position the lower board, and mark it where the bottom meets it. Because the bottom panel is thick, you need to make a second line '/" below the first. Mark a pair of perpendicular lines that correspond to the width of the opening, and cut out this portion of the plank. In order to use the cutout for the front of the tray, you need to make a plunge cut with the saber saw.
