OUTFITTING YOUR AUTOMOTIVE WORKSHOP

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Start off with a 3/8" drive handle and basic socket set for $20 to $30. Then, get 1/4", and finally the most expensive (and least used), 1/2".

Sockets come in regular and deep lengths. You may want a set of deep sockets to remove nuts cinched down over protruding studs or bolts when you gain experience. But most nuts will come off and go on with less expensive regular (shallow) sockets-in the same sizes as aforementioned wrenches.

You will also need 3/8" drive spark ping sockets in two common automotive sizes: 5/8" and 13/16". These are deep hex-sockets that slip all the way down over spark plugs. They contain rubber inserts at the top to hold plugs' delicate ceramic insulators.

Sets are the cheapest way to buy sockets and ratchet-handles. But if your 3/8" set Contains all 12-point sockets, buy snuggerfit ting hex-head shaped sockets in most used sizes: 1/4-, 3/8-,5/16, 1/2" and 9/16". Also, get a three-piece set of extension rods in all bit sizes. And, get 1/4 - to 3/8- and 3/8- to 1/2" adapters so you can use one size socket in another driver.

Finally, be sure you have sockets or box wrenches that fit the square-headed drain plugs in your vehicle's engine oil pan and transmission. Removing these brass or softsteel fittings continually with adjustables will eventually turn the plug heads round. If the differential has drain plugs with square holes rather than protruding heads, get a differential-plug wrench or socket to fit. To remove the really tough nuts, get a "T"bar with a sliding 1/2" drive bit or a long, cushion-handled flex bar with a pivoting 1/2" drive bit on the end, but no ratchet.

Unless you are more careful than 1, you will forever be dropping tools down into your vehicle's dark places-and the little ones don't always go through to the floor or lodge somewhere visible. My truck has a small fortune in sockets and bits lodged in its crannies. I suggest that if you live really far from town, you buy duplicates of most used small wrenches and sockets, or get back-up sets of rack-sold super cheapos.

It can be more convenient to remove a threaded fastener with a waggling back and forth hand motion rather than round-and-round, and there are many places where you will appreciate having an open socket for the ratchet-handles that will accept screwdriver bits.

Screwdrivers

Time was when you needed screwdrivers with full shafts and handles in all sizes for the only slot-headed fasteners we had: standard straight-slot (where you have to rotate the handle a full 180 degrees for each new bite) and Phillips head where you only need rotate your wrist a more convenient 90 degrees. Auto manufacturers discovered that if the 4-point X-shaped Phillips head made screw-fastening on the assembly line marginally faster, 6- and 8point star-shaped drives went on and off the work faster still, while deep, square bits will hold a screw on the tool so it can be inserted one handed. So now we have a whole variety of drive bits. Most common are TORX-with a shallow, round-bottomed hole with eight or so tiny little points around the edge. You find them holding on inside and outside trim of vehicles and the pits are so shallow they bruise if you try removing them with ordinary drivers.

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