Practically Used Homestead Wheels
(Page 10 of 21)
Finally, if you like the vehicle and it costs more than you
are willing to lose, go to Midas for a free check of the
muffler and brakes. Watch them while they do it and keep
their estimate for price negotiating. Then take it to a
mechanic and a panel-knocker you trust and pay for a
drive-train and body-work diagnosis and estimate of repairs
to a safe, road-worthy, and cosmetically acceptable
condition. Make your decision and negotiate.
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You have to be willing to dicker. Dealers have about 1/3 of
the price to play with. Private owners can ask anything
...but always ask more than they expect to get and will
almost always come down if you are resolute. Offer the
lowest price you have the gall to mention and go up
reluctantly.
Restoring the "Well Used" Vehicle
You are going to: pay, at least $100/month to own a car,
whether it is old or new. It's a "pay me now or pay me
later" proposition. Buying new, you pay for all—new
parts all at once. Buying used, you replace wearing parts
one at a time before they threaten to break down. Plan well
and you'll do the work when you want to (not when the car
fails).
Buy, a vehicle that can be repaired easily and cheaply. For
Mustangs, Camaros, VW. Bugs, 1/4-ton pickups, and other
popular vehicles, every part but the frame and body shell
are available at a reasonable price. Look in, the catalogs,
or call local body shops..
Whether you or a paid pro does the work, you'll have to
know what your car needs and what your options are. Read
car-restoration books froth the library: Subscribe to the
old-and performance-car magazines and catalogs. You'll
surely need same help, and every country town has genuine
and self-styled experts in fixing up old cars. Ask anyone
you see driving an older vehicle who they recommend for
mechanical acid body work—and more important, whom
and where to avoid.
P arts may take same searching. You can save time and money
if you buy a parts car to cannibalize or scout around for a
car like yours that someone got tired of working on and
thats being, "parted out". Use (well-) rebuilt alternators,
starters, and, other wearing parts and junkyard body parts
when you can.
With other than for a "numbers-matching" show car,
substitute modern parts if possible, Box example, GM
refused for decades to spend more than $2.00 for an,
electric clock—even for Cadillacs—so clocks
never lasted long. Using Velcro, I suck a rather than buy a
"NOS" GM Clock movement listed in the catalog NOS means.
Old Stock: original unused repair parts that hate been
stored for decades. You pay for the storage a NOS clock
won't work for long if it works at all.
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