SECRETS OF THE SEPTIC SYSTEM

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Site or soil analyses are used to determine seasonal water table levels, soil texture and the presence of a flood plain or layered rock—all of which affect how water will move through the earth over the course of time.

Taken together, the information can roughly establish the required absorption area, when matched to a set of standard guidelines—either the number of bedrooms, baths and garbage disposals in the house, or an estimate of average water use.

Sometimes, space limitations, grades and other physical problems may dictate a need for a modified drain-field design. Besides the standard forked pattern, a level site can be set up with a closed-loop grid or a single serpentine layout. On downslopes, equal serial distribution—in which the liquid must completely fill one lateral trench before it flows to the next—is possible with the use of drop boxes or fittings that create a "jump" between levels. Upward-sloped sites, on the other hand, can't depend on gravity to do the job; in cases like these, a pump is installed between the septic tank and the leach field, and woe to the downhill family that suffers a power outage.

Occasionally, two other features may be used to supplement a septic system. One is a dry well exclusively for gray water—the relatively clean discharge from showers, sinks and washing machines. Though there's little doubt that shunting this mildly polluted water to a separate location takes a sizable load off the septic system, local codes usually limit the use of dry wells.

A second fixture is a grease trap—a filter used between the kitchen drain and the waste line to prevent cooking fats from building up in the septic tank. Since fats and greases are particularly difficult for the system to digest, a trap can save a lot of grief... but so can separating the grease by hand before dishwashing.

DRAIN-FIELD DESIGN

Pumping every three to five years can be considered good maintenance.

An Ounce of Prevention

Unless you're present during the construction of your septic system, there's little you can do about its installation. But taking care of it after it's in the ground is a different story. First—even if you've never had septic problems—make it a point to find out where your septic tank and leach field are located. The tank's outline may appear as a depression in the lawn, and the field as strips of moist green. No signs? Your local health or building inspector may have a plat of your property on file. Such foresight can save you time and money when you call in the pump truck.

Second, let the absorption field do its job. Don't allow run-off from downspouts and driveways to flood the area; redirect the surface flow if you have to. Trees and deep-rooted shrubbery—along with vegetable gardens—should also be kept off the field: The roots of large growth can penetrate and clog the pipe and trenches; edible plants can absorb toxins from household chemicals. The best cover is a bed of healthy grass. Parking or driving over the space also invites trouble, since it compacts the soil and may crush a leach line.

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