Which Hitch is Which

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Most cars being built today can take a Class I hitch and tow a trailer of 1,000 to 2,000 pounds without much difficulty. (Of course, the driver should allow for longer braking distances, slower acceleration and restricted maneuverability.) Heavier trailers, however, can create problems that the standard vehicle, despite having adequate power, just wasn't designed to handle. An automatic transmission, for example, may overheat if not equipped with an auxiliary cooler. Furthermore, sway, where the weight of the swinging trailer twists the car chassis on its axle, can also be a problem in winds or on rough roads. Heavier springs and shocks help, but it may be necessary to add sway control—friction, hydraulic or cam-operated devices that damp sideways swing at the ball. Trailer brakes are also often used in heavier towing situations. One type-surge brakes—is actuated at the coupler and is thus a part of the hitch assembly. Your hitch dealer should be happy to fill you in on the details.

Once you're hitched, take it easy while you get the hang of swinging wide for turns and slowing well in advance. Sooner or later, though, you'll have to back up. No amount of reading and imagining will fully prepare you for your first attempt at backing a trailer. It's one of those things you've got to practice to get right. But, if it's any solace, here's a tidbit you might not know: A short utility trailer is much more difficult to back without jackknifing than a 60-foot tractor trailer.

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