UNDERSTANDING RURAL WATER SYSTEMS
(Page 2 of 4)
September/October 1987
By the Mother Earth News editors
Beyond this, there are additional elements that might be included in your system. These could consist of such things as water-conditioning equipment (to remove or add minerals, exchange ions or destroy bacteria), a turbidity filter (to remove particulate matter), a booster pump (used when the house is located far from or high above the well pump), flow-control or check valves (the first limits excessive water flow, the second prevents backward flow) and perhaps an air-volume control (to maintain the correct balance of air and water in storage).
RELATED CONTENT
Doing Your Part
Granted, at this point even the basics sound complicated. But the good news is that, for the most part, your water delivery system is pretty much self-governing. Put in the now-familiar terminology, most components are not "user serviceable" — and for good reason. Could you really imagine yourself hauling 50 pounds of pump and cable up a 200' well casing without a snag . . . or installing a pasteurizing or ultraviolet disinfecting unit by the seat of your pants? Probably not. You can, however (and probably should), make it a point to learn to conduct a simple inspection of the accessible components in your system, and also count on doing some preventive maintenance, even if only once or twice a year.
HYDROPNEUMATIC TANK
If your pump and delivery system were installed by a professional, you can probably assume that the engineering was correct. In practical terms, this means that any water supply problems you may have aren't likely to be caused by an improperly chosen pump, inadequately sized piping or some other inherent design fault.
Given that assumption, you can tackle your inspection in an orderly fashion. Start by examining any exposed portion of the water delivery line at the wellhead for leaks or excessive corrosion. Pay particular attention to any water gathered at the well seal (the top of the metal casing); it shouldn't be there. Many installations now incorporate what's known as a pitless adapter, which allows the delivery line to exit the casing below the frost line, in which case you won't see it. But if the pipe is visible, chances are it's susceptible to freezing. Protect it by wrapping the pipe and fittings with a urethane foam insulation jacket. While you're at the water source, take a close look at the pump's electric cable. It shouldn't be frayed, cut or brittle from heat. Such damage not only represents a hazard, but can be an indicator of pump inefficiency as well.
Next, make your way to the pressure tank and control. The tank can be located in the well shed (if you have one), but more than likely it's in a utility room or basement at the house. Again, check for leaks in the delivery line, including the portion that might run through a crawlspace or other inconspicuous area.
Following this, you can perform some necessary maintenance and make a simple test at the same time. First, switch of the pump at the breaker box, and run a bathtub faucet until water stops coming out the spigot. Close the faucet, then locate the drain fitting at the bottom of the pressure tank and connect a garden hose to it. (If the drain isn't equipped with a hose bibb or some other valve and hose fitting, now's the time to get one installed.) Pull the hose outside and turn the pump back on for a few minutes to flush the tank of accumulated sand and debris.
