SKYLIGHT II THE ULTIMATE "OPEN HOUSE"

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If you're wondering how to accomplish all this without destroying the interior finish of a cathedral ceiling, your fears are well founded. The simplest solution is to choose a lightweight, moderately sized skylight that won't require extra support. Then you can merely cut away the ceiling material to match the hole. Should you need to do additional framing, though, accept the fact that you'll have to disturb the drywall to each side of the opening, and then some, to fit the double rafters properly.

May I Cut In?

Okay. You know what you're faced with and you've purchased your skylight accordingly. First, read the manufacturer's installation instructions thoroughly: That information is important because it applies specifically to your model. Then mark the rough opening for the unit on the roof or ceiling, allowing a fraction of an inch more all around than the skylight framing requires. Go on to pencil two more horizontal lines, one 3" above the top mark, and the other 3" below the bottom mark, to indicate the area intended for the double headers.

Now you're ready to frame the opening. If the cut is to be large, it's best to keep the roof from sagging by installing temporary braces, or kickers, against the rafters above and below the opening. Make them by nailing 3', or 4' scraps perpendicularly to the ends of 2 X 4s and wedging the Ts between the rafters and the ceiling joists or the floor below.

In the case of an exposed roof in an unfinished attic, simply cut the unwanted rafters) so the ends are square, allowing for the extra 3" taken up by each of the double headers. By far, the best tool to use for this job is a reciprocating saw (see sidebar). If you don't want to buy or can't borrow one, they're available at rental supply stores. Should you be cutting through a finished ceiling, find the centers of the side rafters, then trim away the ceiling material with a utility knife or with a circular saw set at the material's thickness. Remove any insulation, then cut the center rafter(s) as explained before.

Next, measure and cut the boards for the headers. They should be of the same thickness and depth as the rafters, and sized to span them snugly. Set the first header against the cut rafter, and check its alignment with a square. Toenail (drive the nails at a 30° angle to the header) the header to the rafters with 16d sinkers, then nail into the end of the cut rafter. Fasten the second header in the same manner, then repeat the procedure for the opposite double header. If you've chosen a half-width skylight that "floats" between the rafters, now's the time to install the trimmer rafter that will complete the framing of the rough opening.

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