Swiss Army Knife
(Page 2 of 4)
July/August 1986
By Doug Richmond
How to Buy a Genuine S.A.K.
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You'll find that Swiss Army knives—even of identical brand and design—vary considerably in price. For example, four years ago, my friendly local hardware dealer was selling Camper model Swiss Army knives for $11.40 each. That seemed a bit much at the time, so I stopped by the Sierra Designs store on my next trip into town and bought the identical model for a more reasonable $7.75. The moral: It pays to shop around. [EDITOR'S NOTE: These days, Victorinox Swiss Army knives retail for from $10 to $40.]
If possible, visit a store where you can try the action of several knives. The effort required to open and close blades differs widely from one knife to the next, and you def initely do want a tool that opens easily. (The stainless steel in a Swiss Army knife doesn't "wear in" very quickly. If it's stiff' when new, it'll probably always be stiff!)
Caution: Beware of cheap (and not-so-cheap) imitations. The original—the one that lasts like a mother-in-law's curse—bears the name Victorinox on the large knife blade near the bolster. Accept no substitutes!
Keep Those Blades Sharp
Any knife is useless unless it's kept sharp . . . and the S.A.K. is no exception.
You'll find that the stainless steel blades of a Victorinox—which are quite thin (as knife blades should be)—will take and hold a good edge, but do require more time to sharpen than the softer carbon steel blades of the average pocketknife. If you rely on the old standby—a whetstone—for putting an edge on your Swiss Army knife's blades, use only a natural Arkansas stone; the cheaper synthetic Carborundum stones are dandy for carbon steel, but no match for stainless. When honing, hold the blade of an S.A.K. at a flatter angle to the stone than when sharpening an ordinary penknife.
When a whetstone isn't available (such as on a backpacking trip), you can substitute emery cloth . . . the sort that comes rolled up like hair ribbon. (A 180-grit cloth is best, though 120-grit will do in a pinch.) All you have to do is lay a short piece of the material on a hard, flat surface and then use it as you would a stone.
To keep your knife in tip-top shape, touch up its blades between regular sharpenings with a few strokes against a butcher's steel.
To Oil, or Not to Oil?
Because stainless steel isn't subject to rust, most S.A.K. users never oil their knives . . . and thereby do themselves a disservice. A properly lubricated Victorinox is always easier to open than an unoiled one. (This can make all the difference in the world when your hands are cold or wet.)
