How To Weld ... Learn How to Weld By Welding!

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Now, set your machine to about 115 amps and strike an arc. Start the weld at the top of the plates and draw it toward you . . . but this time, hold the rod nearly perpendicular and move the stick side to side in a tight "Z" pattern. If you're using an E6011 electrode—which penetrates a bit more deeply than does an E6013—you may also want to keep the arc length somewhat higher than the 1/8" rule of thumb. At the end of the run, raise the wand about 1/4" and hold it there briefly to allow the cavity in the final half-inch or so of the weld to fill with metal.

Let the work cool for a minute, then knock off the slag. Ideally, you should have a weld that penetrates into the seam, both horizontally and vertically, about 1/8". The surface of the fresh metal should be only slightly convex.

If you're satisfied with your results, smooth the work with a hand grinder to give it the appearance you'd want for, say, a woodstove. On the other hand, if the weld is poor, you may want to break it open—by twisting the pieces in a vise—to get a closer look at your effort. Is fusion complete all along the seam? Are there slag pockets? Keep a critical eye out for weaknesses in the work, and practice correcting them, even if it requires using a process of elimination to pinpoint the problem.

Exercise No. 3: A Tee Weld

Now, you're ready to try to join a horizontal 1/4" steel plate to a vertical one, at a perpendicular. You can use clamps and a length of angle iron to keep the pieces positioned . . . or, better yet, simply lay a small tack weld on both sides of each end of the vertical plate, to hold the members in place.

Since we're only practicing tee-weld technique, 1/8" rod should be sufficient . . . but because more filler material is required here than for a simple butt joint, a 5/32" electrode (again, either E6011 or E6013) would be even better. When using the smaller wand, you'll need to slow your rate of travel in order to build up sufficient metal in the joint . . . but the decreased speed will cause increased heat, and therefore a greater possibility of metal distortion. So, if you have the larger-size electrode available, 5/32" is the way to go.

Set your machine for about 130 amps and strike an arc. Now, hold the rod so that it bisects the right angle formed by the two steel pieces (in other words, so that it's 45° from vertical), but leans at an angle of about 80° out from the corner where you intend to start the weld. Point the tip of the electrode in the direction of travel . . . aim the arc directly at the juncture of the two plates . . . and use a forward, oscillating, circular motion to bring the weld metal up and into the seam. Keep your work as even as possible, and be sure to build sufficient material all along both the vertical and horizontal planes.

When the weld has cooled, examine the seam. Chances are you'll be looking at a real mess after your first few attempts. (Undercutting is a common problem with tee welds . . . to correct it, try increasing or decreasing arc length, or reducing travel speed or amperage.) Be sure to break the weld with a hammer to get a closer look at the degree of penetration; if it isn't deep enough, try, try again. You'll get it right—eventually.

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